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Routes in Lower Measles Wall

Cracklosis T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Getcher Breakfast S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
H1N1 S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hamburger Face TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
I am Lesion S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Measly Corner T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Pox S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Run for Rabies T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
SARS Left and Right T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Scared for Life T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c X
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: 2013
Page Views: 27 total, 1/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Jun 6, 2014
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

Doable as a sport route, but the original ascent placed a pc. or two leading up the initial face. It's possible, during dry spells, to skip the start by climbing up the ugly notch to the block.
Climb up and right to the right side of a block lying on a sloping ledge at the upper end of the notch. Use the block to clip the first bolt, but step down to enjoy the initial move getting onto the upper face. (SARS Left uses the block, then moves left to avoid the crux, taming the route by two grades). Once on the upper face, sketchy moves along a right-rising seam allow another bolt clip (be careful doing this one). Now make holdless moves right to gain another seam. Move up and right along it to top out.

Location

Begin right of H1N1, on knobby edge just left of a (usually wet) notch.

Protection

Tricams help at the start, after that it's all bolts.

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