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Fessura della Disperazione

5.11a, Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 6 pitches, Grade III,  Avg: 3.3 from 7 votes
FA: Galante, Lenzi, Bonelli
International > Europe > Italy > Valle dell' Orco > Sergent > Settore Centrale

Description

Glorious offwidth climbing.

P1: 5c (5.9) not using right leg in crack, 5a (5.7) using it.
P2: 6b+ (5.10d) not using right leg in crack, 6a+ (5.10b) using it.
P3. Follow the crack 5.10
P4. Easy ramp pitch, 5.6
P5. Chimney 5.10
P6. 5.8 exit to rap

Protection

Big stuff. Bolted Anchors. Last pitch takes smaller gear. A micro BD Z4 .1 is a solid first placement where not much else is possible 

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Second pitch. Two #5's are useful
[Hide Photo] Second pitch. Two #5's are useful
Ronda nearing the end of P2 of Fessura della Disperazione.
[Hide Photo] Ronda nearing the end of P2 of Fessura della Disperazione.
Looking up at P3 of Fessura della Disperazione.
[Hide Photo] Looking up at P3 of Fessura della Disperazione.
Ronda - "OMG, more?" - at the end of the 3rd pitch of Fessura della Disperazione.
[Hide Photo] Ronda - "OMG, more?" - at the end of the 3rd pitch of Fessura della Disperazione.
Ronda half way through P1 of Fessura della Disperazione.
[Hide Photo] Ronda half way through P1 of Fessura della Disperazione.