Type: Trad, 550 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Tom Ruddy and Hunter Bonilla, FFA Tom Ruddy
Page Views: 903 total · 16/month
Shared By: SirTobyThe3rd on Jun 3, 2014
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Always check SEKI road conditions and peregrine closures Details

Description

Route was put up on lead from stances and hooks, an impressive lead.Route starts from a little ledge and goes straight up the slab, 50 feet to the right of the Boardwalk Chimney. It features quality rock, sweet little crimpers, exciting slabby face climbing and large chicken head tie offs higher on the route.

Pitch 1: 5.10+ 35M. This is one of the best thin face routes you could find anywhere. It tests your skills on friction and composure. Even though the pitch is fully bolted and requires only a green alien or red BD C3 for protection, it features sporty climbing from bolt to bolt in the upper section of the route. It is never dangerous but gripping. Stop at a bolted belay. From here one can either continue up to the top of the dome, or rappel back down to the little ledge with a 60M rope, or to the ground with a 70m. Watch your ends.
Pitch 2: 5.7 30M. Take the wide crack below the roof to the base of a short flare.
Pitch 3: 5.10 55M.Climb the flare, continue up taking the path of least resistance, sling chicken heads for pro and have fun.
Pitch 4: Low 5th class. Short pitch to the top of the formation.

Location

Route is located on the SW face of the Lower Tokopah Dome. Descent by walking off and scrambling down the SW gully.

Protection

Set of cams from green alien to #5 BD camalot. 10-12 slings.

Photos

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