Type: Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches
FA: Crain, Gordon, McGowan & Miller 1954
Page Views: 5,647 total · 58/month
Shared By: Orphaned User on Jun 3, 2014
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July Details


P1- Start by moving climbers left up an angled crack, then through broken rock over multiple ledges. Pass a fixed piton, and end at about the 3rd ledge, with bolted rap anchors. In getting to the final ledge, take either the left or right crack. Use long slings to reduce rope drag.

P2- A very short pitch traversing ledges. Traverse a ledge / large boulder to climbers right. End at a shoulder-height block in front of a blind airy corner. Gear anchor.

P3- Begin with a fun step around a blind corner (exposed). You may protect this with a cam in a crack near the floor. There is a step-down move at the end of the ledge that people seem to have difficulty with. There is also a somewhat flared crack leading to the belay tree that can be difficult.

P4- You can choose to scramble directly to the summit block or move climber's left up a large flake/crack for another short pitch to the summit block. from here, it is a short scramble to the summit.

Descent- Rap from chains atop the North Face and from chains at P1 belay.
A total of 3 single rope raps (60-m ropes) will get you to where you started.


Park at the hairpin turnout on WA20. From there, walk south through the boulder field looking for a climber's trail leading into the woods. Follow the trail through more forest and boulder fields until you reach Kangaroo Pass. The trail through the boulder fields is faint and sometimes cairned; do your best to approach the pass and pick the trail up again when it reappears. The trail is very well defined once you start rapidly gaining elevation up the pass. Travel time to the pass ~1hr.
From the pass, traverse left on another sometimes there, sometimes not trail. Eventually the trail will take you to a gully leading up to the notch between Kangaroo Temple and Little Finger. Go up for the North Face.


A standard rack to 3". A 60-m rope is sufficient.