Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Salisbury Plain

Cast In The Shadows T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Brent Kertzman and Mike Miller 1992 Ground Up
Page Views: 34 total, 1/month
Shared By: Mike Madsen on Jun 3, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Starts on the SE corner of the formation. Work the short crack flake to its end. Work small awkward often sharp crystals. To a high first bolt. Going from the 1st bolt to the 2nd bolt felt the crux. Use good smearing on tiny holds and go for the small run out. Mantle onto the ledge and take a good rest. Clip the 3rd bolt and make some delicate moves to the summit.

Location

SE Arete

Protection

3 bolts on route. 2 bolt chain anchor. Guidebooks say 4...?

Photos

- No Photos -
Brent Kertzman
Black Hills, SD
Brent Kertzman   Black Hills, SD
Larry Shaffer felt entitled to remove the fourth bolt for some reason. There were three bolts close together protecting the crux. If memory serves me correct those bolts are of the self drive variety and one of the three didn't inspire confidence to me at the time. Likewise the funky thin slabby nature of the climbing and moving into the unknown also influenced with my choice for the bolt placements. Maybe I was just in over my head that day. Drilling on the lead is for a different breed. Jun 12, 2014
Mike Madsen
Rapid City
 
Mike Madsen   Rapid City  
 
Been some action on this "lost" route. Lost as in not much action the past couple of years. Seems to have 3 bolts not sure on the fourth? Looks super easy turns out this one makes ya think. I'd say coming from harbinger to this route the people I was climbing with thought 5.10 B/C for it. I feel it is not 5.10-. IMHO. Nice work BK figured it was yours but wasn't sure. If I'm not mistaken didn't you say the 5.11 had been removed? Jun 11, 2014
Brent Kertzman
Black Hills, SD
Brent Kertzman   Black Hills, SD
FA: Brent Kertzman & Mike Miller, 1992, Ground Up Jun 8, 2014