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Routes in Horsetooth Rock - West Face

Choss Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Straight from the Horse's Mouth T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tourist Attraction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Treasure Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wild Child, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Unknown, 1970s, FFA: Ryan Nelson
Page Views: 1,179 total, 27/month
Shared By: Ryan Nelson on Jun 3, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

The Wild Child is the route to do this face. Many variations exist, and it's one of the most obvious and intimidating lines from the ground. Find the large roof. This is the route.

P1 (32m, 5.11-): the first pitch of this route climbs an overhanging, wide crack. Three #3 Camalots would be nice for the climb, but I usually do it with two and slide one. A #4 Camalot also comes in handy as well.

Make sure you have an attentive belayer/spotter for the first few feet of the climb as the gear is marginal.

Climb this to the base of the roof, and build an anchor.

P2 (20m, 5.10-): this pitch is intimidating, but it eats gear, and the feet are more positive than the looks of it. Climb through the roof, and move around the corner and up to a two bolt belay. Thin gear.

P3 (45m, 5.10 R/X): climb into the Gully 5.9R, and build a belay or skip the belay (using triple length runners), and climb the 5.10R/X Chimney that happens to be the Horsetooth Gap.

Alternate P3 (40m, 5.11-): climb the last pitch of Craig Luebben's sport route - Straight into the Horse's Mouth.

Descent: to descend the middle tooth, you can either rap off the top (SHIT LOADS OF DRAG) or downclimb/rap partially into the 4th class chimney to the east.

Location

This ascends the large roof on the center teeth.

Protection

Double rack to #3 Camalot. Single #4 Camalot. Small nuts.

Photos

Ryan Nelson
Fort Collins, CO
 
Ryan Nelson   Fort Collins, CO
 
Joe, thanks for climbing this route and providing feedback! Much needed! Look forward to more great routes here in 2016, as part of the bolting management plan for Htooth Mtn. A lot of really good intermittent crack systems exist on this rock and Outer Space Rock.

That roof pitch is so good! Apr 2, 2015
Joe Forrester
Palo Alto
  5.10b/c PG13
Joe Forrester   Palo Alto
  5.10b/c PG13
Fun route, good views, quick climbing.

P1 - 5.10 b/c. The gear is pretty good, with a great stopper protecting the moves into the flare/offwidth. 1 #3 and 1 #4 are all that are needed for wide gear. After the first 15 feet, it is about 5.7/8. Save a #1 for the anchor.
P2 - 5.9+. Can be climbed entirely on gear without using any of the old Stardrives or new angles that someone pounded in. No need for any new pins, the gear is bomber. End at two bolts.
P3 - 5.8. The run-out climbing is 5.6, then you enter a chimney for 110+ feet. There is gear intermittently and nowhere near X-rated if you are comfortable climbing 5.8 chimney.

Rack: 1 set stoppers, 1 set TCUs, 1 set cams 0.3 to 4. Slings helpful for the last pitch.

Walk over to the east side of the tooth and rap off. There are 3 bolts with quicklinks. Mar 21, 2015
Kyle Kamrath  
 
First moves on P1 are essentially a bouldering problem, and need a solid spotter. Good jamming technique makes it easier.

P2 is very fun, just don't piss off the birds or they will attack your head.

Hoping to do P3 soon!


Jun 4, 2014
Ryan Nelson
Fort Collins, CO
 
Ryan Nelson   Fort Collins, CO
 
I have 2 anchors set up at the moment for my return to pull the old gear. Please respect them and leave them behind if you climb this route. You'll more than likely rap off them when you get to the third pitch anyways.

There is a anchor made of nuts at the top of P1. Also there is a rap anchor with a locker on the P2 bolt hangers. Both are equalized with a section of climbing rope. Jun 3, 2014
Ryan Nelson
Fort Collins, CO
 
Ryan Nelson   Fort Collins, CO
 
This was originally done as an aid route that was established somewhere in the '70s. In one my photos, you can see the pitons and Stardrives still. They would avoid the first pitch wide crack by climbing the corner 20 yards to the north and traverse into the roof.

I have yet to remove the pins and Stardrives from the roof but plan on doing so very soon. Jun 3, 2014