Avg: 4 from 1 vote
Routes in The Shield
|South Ridge S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Type:||Sport, 350 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||P. Murdock D. Gennarelli (May 2014)|
|Page Views:||141 total, 3/month|
|Shared By:||Pat M on Jun 3, 2014|
DescriptionGreat casual route to an amazing summit. Feels like gym climbing with a big cobble where you need it for every move. As with any less-traveled route, loose rock can be an issue, but the cobbles are quite solid.
Start: Just left of a shallow chimney on the south edge of the tower. There is a clear band of cobbles going up the rounded arete left of the chimney and right of an incipient crack. The first 2 bolts will be visible from the ground.
Pitch 1: Move up left on some small ledges to gain the cobble band, clip the first bolt, then trend up and right past 2 more bolts to a small overlap. Pass this (sling a big cobble for extra pro) and continue past 2 more bolts to a large ledge with a 2 bolt anchor. 5 bolts. 5.7 (150 ft)
Pitch 2: Shuffle the belay right onto the huge grass ledge (no anchor). Move up, just right of a small tree into an small depression/crack. There is a hole (added on the descent) for a removable bolt in the back depression, or just continue up and left onto the rounded arete. Pass a large stopper placement (optional) and continue up to a bolt at a small sloping ledge. Continue up and left through a water channel (darker rock) past another bolt to a 2-bolt anchor above a small grassy ledge. There is a removable bolt hole down on the small grassy ledge to offset the belay stance if desired. 2 bolts. 5.6 (120 ft)
Pitch 3: Move up and left off the belay to a bolt, then trend up and right passing 4 more bolts to a ledge just right and down from the summit ridge. 2 bolt anchor is just below summit ridge. 5 bolts. 5.8 (100 ft)
Descent: Double rope rappel the route. Watch for ropes getting hung on cobbles.