Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Shield

South Ridge S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 350 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: P. Murdock D. Gennarelli (May 2014)
Page Views: 141 total, 3/month
Shared By: Pat M on Jun 3, 2014
Admins:

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Great casual route to an amazing summit. Feels like gym climbing with a big cobble where you need it for every move. As with any less-traveled route, loose rock can be an issue, but the cobbles are quite solid.

Start: Just left of a shallow chimney on the south edge of the tower. There is a clear band of cobbles going up the rounded arete left of the chimney and right of an incipient crack. The first 2 bolts will be visible from the ground.

Pitch 1: Move up left on some small ledges to gain the cobble band, clip the first bolt, then trend up and right past 2 more bolts to a small overlap. Pass this (sling a big cobble for extra pro) and continue past 2 more bolts to a large ledge with a 2 bolt anchor. 5 bolts. 5.7 (150 ft)

Pitch 2: Shuffle the belay right onto the huge grass ledge (no anchor). Move up, just right of a small tree into an small depression/crack. There is a hole (added on the descent) for a removable bolt in the back depression, or just continue up and left onto the rounded arete. Pass a large stopper placement (optional) and continue up to a bolt at a small sloping ledge. Continue up and left through a water channel (darker rock) past another bolt to a 2-bolt anchor above a small grassy ledge. There is a removable bolt hole down on the small grassy ledge to offset the belay stance if desired. 2 bolts. 5.6 (120 ft)

Pitch 3: Move up and left off the belay to a bolt, then trend up and right passing 4 more bolts to a ledge just right and down from the summit ridge. 2 bolt anchor is just below summit ridge. 5 bolts. 5.8 (100 ft)

Descent: Double rope rappel the route. Watch for ropes getting hung on cobbles.

Location

South side of tower. Route is clearly visible from the road.

Protection

As with most routes that we have done here, removable bolts are useful, although not required for this route. Extra long slings are also useful to reduce rope drag and sling horns where desired.

0 Comments