Type: Sport, 300 ft (91 m), 4 pitches, Grade III
GPS: -9.66104, 15.57158
FA: R. Araujo P. Murdock (DEC 2013)
Page Views: 1,447 total · 10/month
Shared By: Pat M on Jun 3, 2014
Admins: Nathan Cahill

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Pitch 1: Easy chimney/corner up the East side of a small pillar on the North side of the tower. No protection except for a small stopper right at the top that is not really worth it. 5.6 (50')

Pitch 2: Start right off top of pillar and work straight up to a small ledge. Move to right edge of the ledge, then continue up, trending left to a 2 bolt belay. 7 bolts. 5.10 (100')

Pitch 3: Move straight up off belay to bulge and trend left through bulge (very exposed!) to the left horizon of the face (after 4-5 bolts). Continue up and gradually back right to 2 bolt belay. 8 bolts. 5.11 (100')

Pitch 4: Move straight up off belay passing a bolt, then move right into a small alcove with a large piece of pure sandstone (very different from the rest of the rock). Clip a bolt in the sandstone, then step left and up to the summit. One bolt and slung boulder is the anchor on the summit. 2 bolts. 5.9 (50')

Descent: With two ropes, you can rappel from the summit to top of pitch 2, then to ground. With one 70m rope you can rappel each pitch to the ground. Rap anchor at top of first pitch is a slung block near the top of the chimney.

Location Suggest change

North side of tower, East side of obvious pillar on North side. Rappel the route (can be done with single 70m rope), although two ropes is recommended.

Protection Suggest change

Route is bolted, but a set of stoppers and some removable bolts (1/2") would be very useful to supplement protection in the scary parts. The route was bolted using Removable Bolt's and the holes were not plugged due to the feeling that perhaps the original bolt spacing was too sporty.

Photos

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