Avg: 3.5 from 8 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 1300 ft (394 m), 11 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||Bill Sumner & Mike Heath 1971, FFA Pat Brennan & Ken Kenaga 1993|
|Page Views:||4,051 total · 48/month|
|Shared By:||Richard Shore on Jun 2, 2014|
|Admins:||Chris Owen, Lurker -, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen|
From the left end of the blocky ledge at the base of the wall, locate the left-facing dihedral system that connects all the way to the summit. Pretty hard to get off-route once you've found it. Decent belay ledges are in short supply, so stop and utilize one when you find it. Many pitches are only 100-150' due to this. The route could likely be done in 9 or 10 pitches with some rope-stretchers.
A pitch-by-pitch breakdown isn't really necessary on a route like this - climb up the corner with hand cracks. Repeat. P7 - the crux - a stout crack on the face leads to a controlled fall/stem over into the corner, then a super airy rightward chimney traverse and hero hand crack out a roof. WILD! The most surprising part about the route is not the difficulty of the cruxes, but how sustained the 5.8 and 5.9 pitches are. My partner and I both thought that many of the supposed "5.8-5.9" pitches were harder than the 5.10's.
Pat Brennan's topo does a pretty good job breaking it all down. Ignore the left-facing/right-facing symbols - they are very confusing while looking up from the base. The entire route is a giant left-facing corner. The topo tries to distinguish the direction based on which way you face while climbing in the corner.