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Routes in Lost World

Bag End V1 5
Captain Obvious V8 7B
Narsil V2 5+
Project V7-8 7B
Riddermark V3 6A
Scareball Masterpiece TR V5 6C R
Shelob's Lair V5 6C
Shieldmaiden V0 4
Thou Shall Not Pass V6 7A
Traverse V0 4
Type: TR, Boulder, 20 ft
FA: Lang Van Dommelen
Page Views: 551 total, 13/month
Shared By: L. Von Dommelheimer on May 30, 2014
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

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Description

This problem is clearly visible from the road. It is a large blunt arete that sticks out of the side of the hill at the far end of the diamond south boulders. the south side of the boulder is brilliant orange granite.

Start on the left before the arete and Climb fun jugs towards the right through some dynamic moves to the lip. From the lip climb smaller holds until you're on the "headwall" make a barndoor move to pinch in the middle of the face. Make a move to the arete and follow it to an easy top out.

While of a relatively easy grade, this is a serious problem and should be treated as such. Falling will spit you about 20' down into the scree, for a classic archangel landing.

Location

You can see this problem on the far end of the boulder field from the road. from the AAC outhouse head towards the normal stream crossing, turn left and head down the valley on the small trail that skirts the river. After a bit there is a bit of a clearing that forms, start moving up hill through some bouldering hopping. Towards the arete now about 100 yards away uphill and to the left. Many problems in here have been cleaned and climbed. Pass "Narsil" on the way, this is about 5 or 10 yards north of the arete.

Protection

Lots of pads and spotters. You can set up a TR on some boulders. Bring a junky rope for this there is a big swing.

As of Summer of 2014, David said he improved the landing somewhat.

Photos

sasquatch
  V5-6 PG13
sasquatch  
  V5-6 PG13
The work David did on the landing makes this much more reasonable, although it is still a tall and VERY proud line. Nice work Lang! Oct 1, 2014