Type: Trad, TR, Aid, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 294 total · 4/month
Shared By: Steve W on May 30, 2014
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Private Property Details

Description

This route was initially bolted on lead with a hand drill for the purpose of aid training. This route continues to change as holds break from free climbing attempts due to the friable nature of the limestone on the Pachyderm Wall. It see's much less traffic then Hole in the Wall, so it remains dirty and brittle.

A free climbing option does exist and attempts at cleaning and freeing loose holds is underway.

Location

This route is located right of Hole in the Wall.
Plan to access the route either from the top on rappel or at the bottom from the lower access trail.
If using a 70 meter rope, the top anchors are 35 meters from the bottom of the Sunshine Wall and can be used to set a top rope or safely rappel to the base. It is a rope stretcher! Anchors exist 10 feet from the base to either fix your ropes or anchor off at the base to belay.

Protection

This was originally an aid line and has a a multitude of 3/8' bomber bolts and anchors all the way to the top. If freeing this route, I believe it has approx 22 bolts, though 12-15 QuickDraws would probably suffice.

The top of the route consist of a 2 bolt anchor and chains set 35 meters from the ground allowing for use of a 70 meter top rope or rappel. CAUTION.....ROPE STRETCHER!!! Use bolted anchor at the base to secure your rope from creeping after lowering or rapping to the base?

Several loose sections exist, and may warrant a helmet by a belayer.

Photos