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Routes in Pachyderm Wall AKA Sunshine Wall

Elephantitis S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Elephunky Traverse T C0
Hole in the Wall S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Memories I've Never Had S,TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Sunshine Face Bolt Ladder 1 T,TR C1
Sunshine Face Bolt Ladder 2 T C1
Type: Trad, TR, Aid, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 98 total, 2/month
Shared By: Steve Weyand on May 30, 2014
Admins: Aron Quiter, Rick Shull, Lurker, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Private Property Details

Description

This route was initially bolted on lead with a hand drill for the purpose of aid training. This route continues to change as holds break from free climbing attempts due to the friable nature of the limestone on the Pachyderm Wall. It see's much less traffic then Hole in the Wall, so it remains dirty and brittle.

A free climbing option does exist and attempts at cleaning and freeing loose holds is underway.

Location

This route is located right of Hole in the Wall.
Plan to access the route either from the top on rappel or at the bottom from the lower access trail.
If using a 70 meter rope, the top anchors are 35 meters from the bottom of the Sunshine Wall and can be used to set a top rope or safely rappel to the base. It is a rope stretcher! Anchors exist 10 feet from the base to either fix your ropes or anchor off at the base to belay.

Protection

This was originally an aid line and has a a multitude of 3/8' bomber bolts and anchors all the way to the top. If freeing this route, I believe it has approx 22 bolts, though 12-15 QuickDraws would probably suffice.

The top of the route consist of a 2 bolt anchor and chains set 35 meters from the ground allowing for use of a 70 meter top rope or rappel. CAUTION.....ROPE STRETCHER!!! Use bolted anchor at the base to secure your rope from creeping after lowering or rapping to the base?

Several loose sections exist, and may warrant a helmet by a belayer.

Photos

Muscrat

  C1
Muscrat    
  C1
Good aid line, C1. A couple of spots mandatory free, <10 (?) There are 4 belay stations if you count the one 5' off the ground and the top. The last 15' are really dirty, and covered in poison oak. If you stop at the belay 15' from the top (where the crack starts up again) you do not have to fiddle fart around with the 70m rope not quite reaching the ground.
Leading this is ...weird. It was bolted as an aid line on lead, with no thought to clipping stances if/when it was freed. The bolts are numerous, ridiculously so, but some stances are...senseless. The line is aesthetic, in it's own way, but tragic that someone put an aid line up what could have been a good free route. 5.11? Feb 16, 2015
Crimper E6
cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
 
Crimper E6   cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
 
my 70m doubled, reached the bottom of the route in one go.
Follows the obvious crack on RHS of wall.
There is a random lower off 5m off the ground..
22 bolts for some reason, although we only used 12 quickdraws and did it in one 35m pitch. dirty and somewhat loose in places. One obvious hard bit and rest is ok. Felt like E25c. Seems like they tried too hard to force the action on the top wall, trending R for a few moves, but this is easy and more fun (and runout) to bypass by just continuing up the natural crack feature. pulled off a few holds... Nov 12, 2014