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Routes in Santa Cruz Dome

Tan in November T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Usually Its Sunny T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 800 ft, 5 pitches
FA: FA/FFA Vitaliy Musiyenko and Daniel Jeffcoach (April 2014)
Page Views: 530 total, 12/month
Shared By: SirTobyThe3rd on May 29, 2014
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Always check road conditions and peregrine closures Details

Description

Very clean and enjoyable route which could be climbed year around. We first attempted it in January 2014 (dry snow year) and came back to get the FA in Mid April 2014. I would not climb it in winter after significant precipitation however, due to the chimney getting snow melt. Spring to Fall would be the best. Dry winter days with warm forecast could be quite nice too.
I would give this route 3.5/4 stars honestly. It is not as good as something like Serenity to Sons of Yesterday but much better than your average Valley/Toulumne Classic. If it was there, it would have lines on the weekends.

Pitches:
1) 120 ft 5.10c - Climb up and left towards the bolts. Make the crux move above the second bolt and a few more committing moves before you are able to place decent pro and set yourself in a crack. Climb the fingercrack which widens to an enjoyable hand crack. Continue up to a bolted belay. No need for anything bigger than yellow camalot (BD #2) on this pitch. FA of this pitch was done by Tom Ruddy and Vitaliy M. In January 2014.

2) 170 ft - 5.10a. Step left from the belay and climb past the two bolts into a flaring corner. Bring your big gear along. Chimney, stem and face climb up towards the belay stance below a prominent chimney.

3) 190 ft - 5.9. Enter the chimney (crux) and make your way up a very enjoyable wide crack inside the giant flake. I thought it was nice to be right side in. Above the flake continue climbing inside the crack (looks harder, but very well protected) or lay it back and run it out. I did the latter and thought the climbing was no harder than 5.8. I was able to place gear every 30-40 ft. Belay from small gear on top of the flake. Medium nuts would work well along with BD #.3-75 size as I remember.

4) 180 ft 5.6 R - Sling a few knobs and pick your way up the sea of slab ahead of you. It does not get harder than about 5.5/6 but does not protect and has no positive holds once you leave the security of knobs. Make your way up to a prominent belay ledge below the final headwall. Larger cams work well for the anchor. I remember BD #3 and #5 working well. Possibly the #6 cam fit well somewhere too.

5) 140 ft 5.7 - Go to the left side of the headwall sling a knob or two and make your way up and past the difficulties. At some point you will be able to start walking. There is a crack right above. You can belay your second here and unrope.

Location

First pitch starts just right of the large buttress which marks the lowest point of the dome. Look for a clean slab with a thin crack part way above it.

Protection

Standard double rack to BD #1 with singles from #2 to #6 camalot

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