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Routes in 09. Guide's Wall

Alpine Spring T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Beautiful Garbage T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Common Ground T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cowboy Bebop S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crozier, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Firecracker T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Jerry's Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kuller, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Madam Butterfly T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Million Muppet March, The S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mos Eisley T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Real Folk Blues, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Scarecrow T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Sparkler T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Tin Man T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Treasure Island T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Ryan Howes, spring 2012
Page Views: 144 total, 3/month
Shared By: Ben Townsend on May 28, 2014
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

Move up the short right-leaning crack, then step left onto the face of the buttress and follow a wandering line of least resistance up to a very puzzling steep exit on the left. The anchor is a few feet up and right on a slab. "A wretched hive of scum and villainy," according to Obi-Wan Kenobi, but the quality of the climbing is much better than the appearance would suggest.

Location

This route climbs the front of the dirty-looking buttress just uphill from the large, left-facing corner of Treasure Island. Start a few feet uphill from a large oak tree, near a short right-leaning crack system.

Protection

Light rack to 3". The gear placements are tricky, but solid -- mostly in pockets or horizontals that are hard to see from below.

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