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Routes in Sleeper

Exploding Head Syndrome S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hypnagogic Jerk S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Nocturnal Urinator S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Jason Halladay, Walt Whetham, Allison Fritz
Page Views: 652 total, 15/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on May 28, 2014
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

The sustained, slightly overhanging nature of this shortie route will keep you wide awake.
Sustained moves on generally good holds on steep rock keep you pumped as you aim for not-quite-as-good-as-they-look scoops and dishes on the steep face to a neat little tufa-like pinch. Finish on lower-angle, licheny rock past one more bolt to the anchors.

Short and full value. Likely 11+ or so for taller climbers. A bit more difficult for shorties.

Location

The center route at the Sleeper. Shares anchors with Nocturnal Urinator to the right.

Protection

Six bolts to chains with steel lowering biners

Photos

The obvious hold for making the clip above and left of the second bolt exploded on me yesterday. There is still a great hold a little deeper on the same feature, but it's not as obvious. I don't think it really changes the difficulty of the route though.

Fun, challenging route for those of us pushing into this grade. May 23, 2017