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Routes in Sleeper
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Exploding Head Syndrome S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hypnagogic Jerk S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Nocturnal Urinator S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Jason Halladay, Walt Whetham, Allison Fritz |
| Page Views: | 1,206 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Jason Halladay on May 28, 2014 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski |
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Access Issue: April 26, 2022 - Jemez Mountains closure order
Details
On April 26th, 2022, the Santa Fe National Forest issued a closure order, fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO… , of much of the Jemez Mountains public land due to the ongoing Cerro Pelado wildfire. The closure order is effective immediately and in force until December 31st, 2022 or until rescinded earlier. This closure includes nearly all the climbing areas listed in here on MP in the Jemez Mountains and Jemez Valley.
Description
The sustained, slightly overhanging nature of this shortie route will keep you wide awake.
Sustained moves on generally good holds on steep rock keep you pumped as you aim for not-quite-as-good-as-they-look scoops and dishes on the steep face to a neat little tufa-like pinch. Finish on lower-angle, licheny rock past one more bolt to the anchors.
Short and full value. Likely 11+ or so for taller climbers. A bit more difficult for shorties.
Sustained moves on generally good holds on steep rock keep you pumped as you aim for not-quite-as-good-as-they-look scoops and dishes on the steep face to a neat little tufa-like pinch. Finish on lower-angle, licheny rock past one more bolt to the anchors.
Short and full value. Likely 11+ or so for taller climbers. A bit more difficult for shorties.
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