Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Mustache Wall

Air Toil S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Aromatic S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
B-Gizzle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Becky Route S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Blast Furnace S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Boldly Departed S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Coven (Seriously Though) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cuss Terr's Last Stand S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dakota Street Bypass S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Double Dog Dare S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fire Bomb T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Flame Thrower S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fu Manchu S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gala Tumble S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gimpenator S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Grindulator S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Megaplex, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mr. Ridiculous S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mustache Ride S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Not The Wheat S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Notorious B.E.G., The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Phenomena S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Power Of Union S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Psycho Sexy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Remington Electric, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Secret Stash left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Secret Stash right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shattered Glass S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sidecar T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slippery Slope S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stone Cold Fusion S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Supergrinder S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Toiler, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Window Shopper S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Brian Ketron, Tai Devore and Trevor Hobbs
Page Views: 797 total, 18/month
Shared By: Vlad S on May 27, 2014
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


11 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

One of the best routes on the wall in terms of richness of movement and deserves a lot more traffic than it gets. There is almost no patina on this side of the wall and the climbing is on flakes and in between cracks and seams on grey rock. There is probably no single move harder than 11c, but except for a short section in the middle it feels like you are at the crux almost for the whole duration of the route. The bolts are all very close together, so it's very well protected.

Location

Starts left of Remington Electric a tier below the routes in the middle of Mustache wall. It is easily identifiable by 4 closely-spaced bolts in grey rock (no patina) going straight up to a small roof with a jug/flake in it.

Protection

14 bolts to a two-bolt mussy hook anchor. 60 m rope will get you down.

Photos

- No Photos -
Jason Albino
San Francisco, CA
 
Jason Albino   San Francisco, CA
 
Best 11d on the wall. Sustained and memorable! Jul 24, 2017
Choncho
  5.11d
Choncho  
  5.11d
Love this route. Best on the wall. Jul 18, 2016
Short Fall Sean
Flagstaff, AZ
Short Fall Sean   Flagstaff, AZ
Cool route, definitely a rich variety of movement and the undercling traverse section is really neat.

However, I disagree with the description that there is no move harder than 11c but the route is sustained. While it was a fairly sustained route (and burlier than most mustache wall routes), I found there to be a truly standout crux around the tenth bolt where you're moving left and up into a wide, flaring crack. I did all the other moves on the first try, but that section totally shut me down. Made me wonder if maybe a hold had broken in there, especially since the rock was still cleaning up in that section. Oct 5, 2015