Type: Trad, 35 ft (11 m)
FA: Dan Hare, solo, 1979.
Page Views: 744 total · 6/month
Shared By: Jay Eggleston on May 27, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This route is graded 5.9 in D'Antonio's guide and by Rossiter's too, but I thought it was a little harder, maybe 10a. The crack is fairly large for hand jams (Rossiter does call it a fist crack) except in the back of it if you reach way far in. There are face holds in a few spots but not many. This is good because using just the crack would be very difficult. The route protects well yet it was a shock to find something harder than 5.9. Maybe I was just having an off day.

Location Suggest change

This route is to the right of Skin and Bones and two routes to the right of Tall Talking Midget. It is the furthest right route at the crag. There is a rock slab at the bottom and this is the obvious hand crack. Descend by walking down the gully to the right.

Protection Suggest change

Double #1 to #4 Camalots and a standard rack for an anchor.

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