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Routes in (f) Big Tree

Fortuitous S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Not Quite Trite T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Perpendiculous T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Primal Dream T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 165 ft
FA: Robin Barley (b), Tony Richardson (fa) 2000
Page Views: 205 total, 5/month
Shared By: John Wilder on May 27, 2014
Admins: Sean Godwin, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Description

An epic adventure that will test your 5.10 climbing skills, lead head, and rope length all in one mega-pitch. This route is a MUST DO for anyone who is solid at hard 5.10, low 5.11 climbing. Long, technical, and loaded with mid to hard 5.10 cruxes, this route just keeps coming at you.

Located in the Corridor at the Fortress, this route starts under a black water streaked roof system by a big tree. It stays left of the corner, heading up through the black streak, then stays left of the obvious anchor out right (you'll want to clip this with a long runner, and you do rappel off of it), then heads left up to a high bolt, and romps up through extremely technical terrain straight to the top of the wall and a good belay ledge. Two rappels are required to get back down, unless you trail a line. This route is not to be missed, easily one of the best climbs in the area.

Location

In The Corridor at The Fortress, just right of a huge tree, left of a small corner. The obvious black streak through a low roof.

Protection

14 bolts, anchor kit, one or two long runners.

Photos

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sward  
Yes, with a 70m rope, rappelling to Not Quite Trite anchors is much more safe and doable than with a 60m rope. But please make sure your rope is divided equally with knots on both ends. Oct 15, 2014
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
 
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
 
Did this route with a single 70m and comfortably rappelled down to the mid-station right of the route and then to the ground. I didn't see an anchor out left and considering the rightward traversing nature of the route, I'd be surprised that an anchor out left would be safer than the one straight down from the top of the route.

I will, of course, defer to locals on this one- I can only relay my own experience on this route. Oct 2, 2014
sward  
Please rappel down to the mid-station of Purpendiculous, the 5.10c to the left of the route, and not down to the chains of Not Quite Trite, the 5.10a to the right of the route, especially if using a 60m rope. The older guidebook has these instructions, whereas the newer one does not. This is vital information. Oct 2, 2014