For next few days, REI will DOUBLE your gift to the Access Fund - up to $65,000. Donate Now!
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Diagonals Wall

01) Hot German Babe S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
02) Nick The Wonder Dog S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
02.5) Bolts Over Troubled Water S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
03) Ramp Of Death T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
04) Barron Von Mischke S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
05) Bolt Bolt Boltin on Heaven's Door. S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
05.5) Bolters on the Storm S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
06) FBBMEAJMFFAMEUFA T,S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
06.5) Kletterfreude S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
07) Dirty bolts and their done dirt cheap S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
08) Supercalifragalisticexpi-BOLT-adocious S,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
09) Boltway to Heaven S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
10) Cavedago - Gateway To Spormaggiorre T,S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
11) Packen Wir Es An!!!! S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
11.5 Purple Bolt, Purple Bolt S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
12) Quantum Chaos S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
13) Quantum Order T,S,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Michael Endrizzi
Page Views: 251 total · 5/month
Shared By: Dreez on May 26, 2014
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


7 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Location [Suggest Change]

3rd route right from the left arete.

Description [Suggest Change]

Start on right facing 6ft tall flake, lean left, bit hard first move but well protected. Follow boltline. Crux is where route intersecs with Ramp Of Death, slabby well protected with 2 bolts. Last move is pretty hard if you go straight up/left'ish (I didn't use the 2ft flake, see if you can do that) and clip to the right. I tested the flake and it seems good, but hate to see it come off. Might have your belayer stand aside.

I had to put the anchors on the right because the block is loose at the top of the route.

Great 5.10a lead for short people.

Bolted: 5/24/14 Michael Endrizzi

Prefer no drytooling here. Drytooling destroys routes. Tradition is to use web anchors and trad gear
if you really need to drytool. Bolts are for sport climbers. Let's save these climbs for YOUR kids. Thanks. Dreez

Protection [Suggest Change]

7 bolts, well protected for short people. Had a 5'3" person lead it.

Photos

jack powers
St. Paul, Mn
  5.10a
jack powers   St. Paul, Mn
  5.10a
Climbed this the other day. Nice route! It is a little confusing because there was a bolt with a cloth through it, and another bolt a few feet to the right. Does anyone know if the cloth is a warning about that bolt? Also, I recommend that in honor of the 5'3" clipping tester, the name of this route be changed to a pun involving the clipper's name and the most famous pitch on Everest. Oh yeah, my partner said that some wasps were building in the drill hole at the top by the anchors. Clip cautiously. Jul 11, 2014
Dreez
 
Dreez  
 
Yeah, I forgot to pull the cloth off. Bolt is good - pull the cloth. Or I can do it when I get back there. Jul 12, 2014
Dreez
 
Dreez  
 
Well the dry toolers decided to hack this route up. Suggestion: I think Sigma has some cool moves on it, try hacking on it for a change. May 25, 2016

More About 02.5) Bolts Over Troubled Water

Printer-Friendly