Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Mark Jero, Eric Harp, Kevin Gonzales, 1988
Page Views: 106 total · 2/month
Shared By: slim on May 25, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is another burly warm-up at the Peg Leg Wall. In previous guidebooks ,this was listed at 11a. It is harder than Best For Your Stick but considerably easier than Corn Dog.

Begin from a table-like ledge (I recommend stick clipping first bolt), and make barndoor-ish moves up the face and arete, past many pockets and a couple more bolts to the anchor. It starts out a little bit steep and ends up on lower angled terrain.

There isn't much chalk, so expect to spend some time figuring out which pockets are good and which ones are not.

Location

From where the trail meets the wall at the far right side of the wall underneath the roof route 'Adversary', walk left about a couple hundred feet. You will see a small trail that goes up to a deep, dark corner. On the left face of the corner is 'Best For Your Stick'. Around the arete to the left is Sex Wax. Scramble up and left onto a ledge that makes a nice seat.

Protection

3 or 4 bolts plus anchors. I recommend having your belayer up on the ledge and stick clipping the first bolt.

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