Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: John Turner, late 1950s
Page Views: 1,346 total · 24/month
Shared By: Daniel Israel on May 22, 2014 with updates from rocknice2
Admins: Luc-514

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Site access fees - Frais d'accès Details

Description

A clean, arching, finger crack. Followed by a slabby traverse left, and then up right the final short crack. Bolted Anchor
Rappel easily done with a 60 metre rope

Location

Right in front of a bench near the sign labelled "imperiale"

Protection

BETA WARNING

The crack itself protects excellently (25 feet), however, when making the traverse left (15 feet) there is practically no opportunity to protect. The end of the route is easier and can be protected easily.

The route can take a number 3 bd camalot at the start, but the crack itself will take finger size gear, and in a few places it can take something a bit larger.

Photos

Alternate finish goes straight up over the small roof to a second fixed anchor. Two bolts protect a tricky and crimpy (5.9? 5.10?) slab. Makes for a very spicy finish Aug 28, 2015
Luc-514
Montreal, Quebec
  5.9+
Luc-514   Montreal, Quebec  
  5.9+
The direct variation (at the small roof) is called Symbiose clocked in at 5.10d. Aug 31, 2015
Marty Theriault
Quebec, QC
 
Marty Theriault   Quebec, QC
 
Quelle Belle voie ! do this route !!! Jun 20, 2016