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Routes in 3. Impériale

Chimère T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Impériale directe T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ombre Chinoise S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sceptre T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sortie Côté Surplomb T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Symbiose T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Éclipse T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: John Turner, late 1950s
Page Views: 1,205 total · 24/month
Shared By: Daniel Israel on May 22, 2014 with updates from rocknice2
Admins: Luc-514

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Access Issue: Site access fees - Frais d'accès Details

Description [Suggest Change]

A clean, arching, finger crack. Followed by a slabby traverse left, and then up right the final short crack. Bolted Anchor
Rappel easily done with a 60 metre rope

Location [Suggest Change]

Right in front of a bench near the sign labelled "imperiale"

Protection [Suggest Change]

BETA WARNING

The crack itself protects excellently (25 feet), however, when making the traverse left (15 feet) there is practically no opportunity to protect. The end of the route is easier and can be protected easily.

The route can take a number 3 bd camalot at the start, but the crack itself will take finger size gear, and in a few places it can take something a bit larger.

Photos

Alternate finish goes straight up over the small roof to a second fixed anchor. Two bolts protect a tricky and crimpy (5.9? 5.10?) slab. Makes for a very spicy finish Aug 28, 2015
Luc-514
Montreal, Quebec
  5.9+
Luc-514   Montreal, Quebec  
  5.9+
The direct variation (at the small roof) is called Symbiose clocked in at 5.10d. Aug 31, 2015
Theriault
Quebec, Quebec
 
Theriault   Quebec, Quebec
 
Quelle Belle voie ! do this route !!! Jun 20, 2016

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