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Routes in AWOL

Goddess S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Kinder, Gentler, Carpet Bombing S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Little Hittlers S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sideswipe S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Situation Room S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
You Get What You Deserve T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Bryan Burdo, Pete Doorish
Page Views: 219 total · 4/month
Shared By: Edward McFarlin on May 22, 2014
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

The first half of the route is more balancey, technical and delicate. The second half is more powerful and physical with some fun stemming in the moderately overhanging layback section. There is a really low angle dirty slab section at the top which seems to add a lot of rope drag for top rope belays.

Location

Starts on the awkward hillside to climber's left of "Kinder, Gentler, Carpet Bombing". Follow the bolts to the top. Part way up the route there is an optional 10c trad route called "Collateral Damage" that forks left.

Protection

7 bolts to the anchors.

Photos

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Nick Drake
Newcastle, WA
Nick Drake   Newcastle, WA
Original bolts and anchor were pretty questionable on this in 2015. Cold shut at the top and spinning. Apr 6, 2017
Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
Jon Nelson   Redmond, WA  
Do you mean that the anchor hangers spin?
If so, was this just an issue about tightening the nut? Apr 6, 2017
Tiffany Samson
Seattle, WA
  5.11a
Tiffany Samson   Seattle, WA
  5.11a
Route was dripping wet going to the 1st and 2nd bolts. Recommend a stick clip for the first bolt (especially when wet) or else tumble down the hill if you fall. Run out from 2-3, but there's easier climbing there in the middle - walk up slab. 3rd bolt is placed too high for shorties to clip from the ledge. You probably need to be at least 5'9" to clip standing, or get up into the dihedral to clip from (already being so high above the 2nd bolt though makes that a little heady). A short stint of fun stemming and lieback to the 4th bolt. Clip and you're well protected for the lieback crux. Lieback may be easier for shorties, but the reach to the slopey bumpy ledge holds is closer for taller folks. Rest on ledge. High 5th bolt is an old chainlink which is also hard to clip from the ledge if you're short. One more trick to get over the bulge, then easy slab. 6th bolt is useless one foot below the anchor. Only thing I could see it useful for is to PAS into for cleaning since the left side of the anchor only has one chain link. Anchor is very old and rusty and also not equalized. A ton of rope drag if this is top roped. Looks like this route gets very little traffic - I had to break through many spiderwebs on the way up and when pulling the rope post-rappel, it curled around a tree branch, which then snapped off . If you can't get through the crux and need to bail, you can traverse over right to the 5.9 KGCB anchor, or even just climb up through there. This might be more like a 10d when not wet. Jun 25, 2018

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