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Unknown [Just Shy Of The Tip]

5.6, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 1.8 from 35 votes
FA: unknown
Oregon > Portland & The… > Rooster Rock
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure :: March 15 - August 15 DetailsDrop down

Description

Instead of the 4th class scrambling going up and to the left, there is a set of 8 bolts that get you directly to the new bolted anchors mid-way. The route is a bit dusty in bits, but the rock makes for easy step-ups between clips. To climb the rest of it, see the Classic route's description. [Route only showed up recently, would love to credit whoever put it up as well as it's proper name]

Location

Right in front of the right tree, to the right of the classic scramble

Protection

9 Bolts to anchor.

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Sport Route
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Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Nate Ball

  5.7
[Hide Comment] This route adds a healthy pitch of climbing to this otherwise all-too-brief route. Rock quality is often suspect, edges and ledges are dirty, and the bolts are some budget bullshit, but it still makes for a worthwhile approach to the upper pitch. The scramble is super easy, so if you're not in a hurry, take this line.

Route can be rapped with a 60m rope. Aug 14, 2014
Micah Klesick
Charlotte, NC
  5.6
[Hide Comment] This is the best way to access the midway anchors. And using this start also allows you to do the entire climb in one pitch as well. Jun 14, 2017
Isaac
Portland
 
[Hide Comment] Agree with prior two comments. I don't see any reason to do the "classic" meandering option with this section bolted. Straight-forward and direct approach to midway anchor. Even though this is a short multi, be sure to establish non-verbal communication signals with partner as it is difficult to hear with freeway noise/gorge wind. Also, we careful of poison oak, esp. near the base of the route. And afterward, go take a dip in the Columbia and cool off with the nudies! Jul 10, 2017
Kevin Diederich
Portland, OR
  5.6
[Hide Comment] To get there walk from the parking lot before the boat ramp south around the lake. You will eventually walk a short distance along I84, and find a faint path going north toward the route up a small hill. The route goes up a small hill from the highway, not down into the blackberries.

Climbed as a group of three using this route to introduce my girlfriend to multipitch climbing concepts. We used a 70m rope with her tied in the middle somewhere after I lead and built the anchor on this pitch and P2, with the 3rd still tied in to the end of the rope. This was a really quick way to climb as 3. I'm not sure you could do this with a 60m rope on P2 without a little simulclimbing from the followers. I used a few cams and a couple nuts, but the climbing is so easy you can get away with running it out a bit. I brought a 60m rope up in a backpack to use to rappel. We had no issues with pulling the rope after the rap using a double fish. Overall, I found it to be an enjoyable way to spend a few hours. Oct 6, 2019
Vince Schreck
Portland, OR
  5.8 PG13
[Hide Comment] I've done this route probably five or six times now, and I had to do it twice this week because I got my ropes stuck while trying to single-rap using a tagline and my 70 m. I won't bore you with those details! While most of this long pitch is in the 5.6 to 5.7 range, the first moves put it at a solid 5.8 for me. I've lead-soloed it, but also, I've taken up many others who agree with me. It's the classic blocky moves on slightly overhanging rock. There are a couple of places with marginal holds and high steps. We all understand outdoor grading is more difficult than the gym, but I would hate for someone to get on this thinking it's 5.6. Most of the loose rock has been peeled off and/or cleaned. It's an enjoyable climb for the beginner/intermediate leader. Aug 15, 2023
Jon Hart
Portland, OR
[Hide Comment] Actually 9 bolts to anchor May 4, 2025
Kele Rivers
Portland, OR
  5.6
[Hide Comment] Bolts are probably still plenty bomber, but looking like they are starting to suffer after many long and wet winters Oct 7, 2025
[Hide Comment] Not sure about the comments about the conditions of the bolts, they seem to be in good shape with minimal rusting. They are cheap ClimbX bolts, but there is no visible rust or rust streaking out of the bolt holes. The actual stud is a bit long which makes them somewhat difficult to clip, but the clipping stances are beyond bomber, even for 5.6. Jun 22, 2026