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Routes in (n) Snake Rock

A Desperate Man T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cling On T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Don't Tread On Me S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Don't tread on me finish S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hemp Liberation S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Iguanas on Elm Street S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lords of Karma S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Made in the Shade S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Notice to Appear S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Reptile T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Split Image S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 120 ft
FA: John "JC" Collins March 1991
Page Views: 679 total, 16/month
Shared By: Jon Rhoderick on May 19, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

This stunning sport line climbs a water streak on widely varying terrain. It's almost as if someone took a stunning, old school line from CeĆ¼se or Verdon and plonked it on the Backside. This is a stout line, and it will test your head, stamina, and footwork.

After climbing one of more sandbagged 5.10's in Smith, tricky crimping leads to arete where a rest can be found. A tricky clip and some intense pulling on side pulls and pockets leads to a dash to the next clipping stance. Rest here and get psyched, if you screw up the sequence pulling on to the slab you'll be clocking some air time! After a much needed respite, the final two bolts tackle a physical overhang on good holds.

Location

Above Hemp Liberation

Protection

13 bolts. Long sling on the 4th, you shouldn't need to unclip the bolt above the roof as the book says.

Photos

Chuck Becker
Portland, OR
  5.12c
Chuck Becker   Portland, OR
  5.12c
Sept. 19 2015 I discovered a core-shot in my rope after a burn on this route, during which I took a couple falls. It was an older rope and getting pretty worn anyway so I'm not entirely sure it was caused by something particular to this route. The next time I got on it I was more leery of the gear and felt the basket of all the fixed draws before I clipped them and didn't notice any sharp edges and clipped them all again without incident. Also the rope seems to not run over any unusually sharp rock features. I want to throw this info out there just in case there is something on this route that could cause more rope damage in the future. Oct 5, 2015
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
So, Jon, what you're saying is that Go Dog is harder than Churning or Kings? Hmmm... May 23, 2014
Take the grade with a grain of salt. Probably harder than Churning or Kings, easier than Go Dog Go. 12c at Smith means different things to different people. May 19, 2014