Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,628 total · 29/month
Shared By: Christian Prellwitz on May 16, 2014
Admins: Aeon Aki, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Description

This is an oustanding technical climb requiring good crimp strength and footwork. It climbs absolutely perfect black rock. The kind of rock that makes Joe's Valley so special.

Start sitting (more like crouching) on the obvious edge/rail on the right side of the face. Move left and then up via small crimpers, slots and slopey edges and very technical footwork.

This climb is very sustained and does not let up until you are on top.

This problem was originally called 'The Dead Sea' by Jason Kehl and company, who discovered and cleaned the line. You can see the original footage here: youtube.com/watch?v=ubufXDv…

Location

This problem is located downhill and to the right of 'Dark Continent'. It can be approached from those problems or directly from the parking. It is the obvious black vertical face on the right side of the drainage where all the boulders are.

Protection

A few pads are ideal. A spotter is nice though not necessary.

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Heel hook on the starting hold
Heel hook on the starting hold
 0
Technical balancy route
Technical balancy route
 0
gettin the jug
gettin the jug
 0

2 Comments

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Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V8
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V8
Personally, I think this climb is phenomenal. More people should climb this thing. I never see anyone on it.

Many people think it is hard for the grade. It felt like v8 to me. Maybe stiff v8. Hopefully, some people will contribute their opinions and we'll get a consensus.

On a side note, my beta for the opening sequence was slightly different than what is used in the video. May 16, 2014
Zane Dordai
Salt Lake City
 
Zane Dordai   Salt Lake City
 
Agreed with Christian, I really don't understand the obsession with certain climbs in Joe's; the equivalent ambivalence of some roadside problems with brilliant rock quality seems a little odd. Felt spot on for 8 to me, maybe even a bit soft. I did it from a lower start, sitting on the ground. There is also a problem that goes right off this same start, about a 7 from the sit and 6 from the stand, called Meat Wagon. Jul 2, 2018