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Routes in Demon Dome

Number of the Beast T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rosemary’s Baby T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 600 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Greg Vernon, Sally Moser
Page Views: 770 total · 17/month
Shared By: Ken H on May 15, 2014
Admins: Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

We did this climb in 4 pitches. Sorry I don't remember grades or pitch lengths. Kind of guessing from memory so any corrections in the comments are welcome.

Pitch 1 - Head up a widish crack to a nice gear belay. 5.6

Pitch 2 - Continue heading up and as the crack thins move right to a right facing crack. Build a gear hanging belay or extend it down 10 ft to stand on a nice ledge. 5.6

Pitch 3 - Head up to a right facing corner as it thins down to micro nut. Kind of hard to protect. Move left to nice dishes to a two bolt belay at a nice stance. 5.8

Pitch 4 - Slab climb up to a bolt and then continue up the left facing dihedral. 2 bolt belay. 5.7

4th class to the top if you like. We did and then just down climbed back to the anchors.

4 double rope rappels on bolt anchors down the slab face will bring you to the ground.

Location

Kind of around the right side of the formation.

Look for the overhanging formation of The Crack of Charon 5.12 A1, 4 bolts to overhanging crack. The start is around to the right of that.

Protection

Gear from fingers to #3 with a set of nuts should do fine.

Photos

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