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Routes in Red Gate

Accident Victim S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mean and Nasty S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Progression S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Ravens Reach S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Scotch S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Unknown 1 S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Whiskey S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Jim Butchart
Page Views: 312 total, 7/month
Shared By: Nick Weicht on May 12, 2014
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

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Description

Progression starts at the belay bolt three feet off the ground but it is best not to anchor in to avoid any possible loose rock falling down. Climb into the dihedral then cut right on the face following bolts to a couple ledges. The upper half to the route is fun and steep with a great roof crux on thin holds. Pull over the lip on a jug and finish on a exciting push to the anchor.

LOCATION
Progression is the left route on the upper face and starts directly under the anchor.

Protection

10 bolts, 2 bolt chain anchor

Photos

At 10a/b this route is over rated. 5.9 on a couple of moves to the little roof crux, the crux move is 5.10- with a thin little nub for your left foot. Apr 25, 2017
Nick Weicht
Valdez, AK
 
Nick Weicht   Valdez, AK
 
Good call on the star rating yet I still love the upper crux and Red Gate is one of my favorite crags on the highway because of numerous long routes to be had. If someone wants to get a long burn in they can lead Ravens Reach, clip the anchor and down climb Progression, up climb Progression and down climb Ravens Reach all in one go. This makes for two full rope lengths at once and you can collect all your draws on the way down if the second is not strong enough to second 5.10 on a traverse. The linkup may be worth an extra star by Highway standards. May 14, 2014
L. Von Dommelheimer
Anchorage
  5.10a
L. Von Dommelheimer   Anchorage  
  5.10a
This route was a good time, but not work 4 stars, it merits between two and three stars, maybe three for length. May 14, 2014