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Routes in Middle Rocks

Apathetic Lift T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Glacier Meditation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zippy Lightning T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 468 total, 11/month
Shared By: Philip Schuchardt on May 11, 2014
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Description

It starts off with a fun and balancly mantle off a nice jug. Just after mantling gain a awesome hand crack. Follow the slabby hand crack to the top. Look right and enjoy the amazing view. This climb is a classic!

Protection

From BD .4 to 1.0. It's also useful to have large cam (ie BD 3.0) for a horizontal near the top. You can pretty much plug gear anywhere. It's also useful to sling the jug before mantling off of it at the beginning of the climb.

Photos

Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8
The start is cruxy with a committing mantle. I got a nice orange metolius TCU in behind the flake. The rest of the climb protects very nicely with nuts and medium sized pieces. I placed several #.75s, #1s, a #2 and a #3. The crack petering out in the middle makes for a fantastic move. Dec 26, 2014