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The Normal Route

Mod. Snow, Snow, Grade II,  Avg: 3.2 from 19 votes
FA: Unknown
International > S America > Bolivia > Huayna Potosi

Description

Take a rocky trail to a hut at the terminus of the glacier. From here, easy glacier travel lead to a bergschrund. Sometimes this requires some ice climbing, other times a ladder is installed. Easy terrain then leads to a final 45 degree headwall that is climbed in 4 pitches

Protection

Ice axes, crampons, ice screws and snow pickets

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

descending HP on a 40 degree day in late july
[Hide Photo] descending HP on a 40 degree day in late july
Making camp ~50-100m above Campo Alto, August 2019.
[Hide Photo] Making camp ~50-100m above Campo Alto, August 2019.
Potosí summit ridge at sunrise, Aug 2019.
[Hide Photo] Potosí summit ridge at sunrise, Aug 2019.
The bergschrund in 2007
[Hide Photo] The bergschrund in 2007
The summit ridge
[Hide Photo] The summit ridge

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Richard Pattison
[Hide Comment] If you're well acclimatised, you only need 24 hours on the mountain. We arranged a taxi to drop us off and pick us up. We climbed the normal route - the refuge has very smelly toilets, so we continued up to camp on the shoulder above. Maybe 10 parties summitted with us. I have a 5 min movie with maps, topo & beta here: youtu.be/3-tF76IZE4s Oct 4, 2022