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Routes in Peg Leg Wall

Best For Your Stick S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chili Dog S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Clutching At Straws S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Corn Dog S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dough Daddy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Flamed, The Pumped, The French, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Miss Money Penny S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mr. Peg Leg Speed Work S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Promised Land S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sex Wax S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Take It To The Bank S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Unknown Short Warmup S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
catch the wave S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
close to the bone S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
men of iron T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
surf's up S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: bob d'antonio and richard aschert
Page Views: 82 total, 2/month
Shared By: slim on May 11, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Miss Money Penny is a fairly new route and a nice addition to the area. Scramble easily up onto the massive block and clip the first bolt. Stare at the confounding bulge. Hurl yourself upward through a dense 12c sequence that requires an odd combination of brutal lockdown strength and cunning technicality.

The first couple tries I didn't know if I liked this thing - it seemed impossible at the grade. When I accidentally figured it out, it really made my day. The remaining climbing is considerably easier but really fun, and the rock is cool.

Location

The Peg Leg Wall is primarily broken up into 3 main walls. The trail comes up at the furthest right wall, at the base of 'Adversary'. Hiking to the left 200 feet, the next main wall has 'Clutching At Straws'. Another 100 feet to the left is the Bone Wall. This route is located at the Bone Wall and is the 3rd route from the right. It starts on top of a big, rectangular block.

Protection

IIRC 4 bolts and anchors. Bring another couple draws just in case.

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