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Routes in Peg Leg Wall

Best For Your Stick S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chili Dog S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Clutching At Straws S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Corn Dog S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dough Daddy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Flamed, The Pumped, The French, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Miss Money Penny S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mr. Peg Leg Speed Work S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Promised Land S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sex Wax S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Take It To The Bank S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Unknown Short Warmup S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
catch the wave S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
close to the bone S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
men of iron T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
surf's up S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Kevin Gonzales, Mark Jero, Eric Harp, 1988
Page Views: 58 total, 1/month
Shared By: slim on May 11, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Best For Your Stick climbs a nice, little panel of rock that is very reminiscent of the rock at the Dark Side. The climbing is somewhat technical, on tricky pockets and good edges. This is a really good warm-up.

Location

From where the trail meets the wall at the route 'Adversary', hike left past the other 3 Adversary Wall routes. Continue for a 100, maybe 150, feet, past several routes until you get to a deep, black corner that is up above the trail on a dirt mound. The right wall of this corner has a very defined crack/flake in black and pink rock. The left wall of the corner is home to 'Best For Your Stick', a nice looking, slabby, black route.

Protection

4 bolts, plus a 2 bolt anchor up and left of the last bolt.

Photos

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slim

 
slim    
 
Note that photo on page 91 in the blue Shelf Road Rock Book has a snafu with the numbers. In the photo, the line shown as #12 is Best For Your Stick. The route on the left side of the arete (shown as #11) is Sex Wax, 11a. May 11, 2014