Pillars of Dickulese
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
Routes in 1. Left Side
|Birthday Brushings 5.7+ G / 5.6 PG-13 T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Inspectrum T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R|
|Lucky Charms & Lucky Charms Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Pillars of Dickulese T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13|
|Watermelon, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|What's Up Yankee? T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13|
|Wit's End "Without" (the branch) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Dick Traverse & Mike Friedland, Sept 1998|
|Page Views:||76 total, 2/month|
|Shared By:||Robert Hall on May 9, 2014|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall|
DescriptionA nice route, but the slab climbing on P1 seemed harder than the climb's rating of 5.6. As for the top of the 2nd pitch (rated 5.3),... well either I TOTALLY "blew" the sequence over the final overlap, or went over it at the wrong "low point...with a crack that accepts cams"!
START- This climb starts at the base of the cliff, not from the tree ledge where Watermelon and Wits End starts. [ See photo of START ] Directly 40-50 ft below the far right end of the tree ledge, look for a bolt above a small overhang in a weak system of right-facing corners.
P1 - Climb past the bolt to the far end of the large tree ledge (optional belay here). Climb the steep, but featured "pillars", to a 2nd bolt, past this ( crux, seemed harder than 5.6 to me!) Then to a flake and trend right [VAR] to a double bolt anchor. 130 ft
P2 - Climb past the one bolt and up clean rock to the moss and the overlap; climb through the overlap "at its lowest point" at a crack / flare "that accepts cams". Placing a cam here reduces the quality of the handhold, but be careful as I think it's MUCH harder than the 5.3 given in the guide. 120-130 ft. (NOTE: the move may "go" 4-5 ft left of the crack itself, DUH!)
VARiation- Alternately, one can continue straight up on the left to the overlap. This probably intercepts the old route "Wits End".
Descent: Rap the route with 2 ropes, or if you have only a single 70m, move approx 50 ft to climber's right to the to rap station of "Birthday Brushings".