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Routes in 1. Left Side

Birthday Brushings 5.7+ G / 5.6 PG-13 T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Inspectrum T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Lucky Charms & Lucky Charms Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Pillars of Dickulese T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Watermelon, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
What's Up Yankee? T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Wit's End "Without" (the branch) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dick Traverse & Mike Friedland, Sept 1998
Page Views: 76 total, 2/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on May 9, 2014
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

A nice route, but the slab climbing on P1 seemed harder than the climb's rating of 5.6. As for the top of the 2nd pitch (rated 5.3),... well either I TOTALLY "blew" the sequence over the final overlap, or went over it at the wrong "low point...with a crack that accepts cams"!

START- This climb starts at the base of the cliff, not from the tree ledge where Watermelon and Wits End starts. [ See photo of START ] Directly 40-50 ft below the far right end of the tree ledge, look for a bolt above a small overhang in a weak system of right-facing corners.

P1 - Climb past the bolt to the far end of the large tree ledge (optional belay here). Climb the steep, but featured "pillars", to a 2nd bolt, past this ( crux, seemed harder than 5.6 to me!) Then to a flake and trend right [VAR] to a double bolt anchor. 130 ft

P2 - Climb past the one bolt and up clean rock to the moss and the overlap; climb through the overlap "at its lowest point" at a crack / flare "that accepts cams". Placing a cam here reduces the quality of the handhold, but be careful as I think it's MUCH harder than the 5.3 given in the guide. 120-130 ft. (NOTE: the move may "go" 4-5 ft left of the crack itself, DUH!)

VARiation- Alternately, one can continue straight up on the left to the overlap. This probably intercepts the old route "Wits End".

Descent: Rap the route with 2 ropes, or if you have only a single 70m, move approx 50 ft to climber's right to the to rap station of "Birthday Brushings".

Location

The easiest way to find the start is to find the large tree-ledge that comes in from the left about 30ft up; the "pillars" are at the far right end of this ledge, although the climb starts at the ground level. There's a 3/8 SS bolt about 15-20 ft off the ground, at a steep wall/overlap formation. (see photo) The second bolt can not be seen.

Protection

Two bolts plus opportunity for cam/nut placements lead to a double-bolt anchor at the end of P1. The top of P2 has a sling on a large pine tree.

Photos

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