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Routes in Demon Dome

Number of the Beast T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rosemary’s Baby T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Vernon, Loomis, Holmes
Page Views: 1,125 total · 25/month
Shared By: Matt N on May 8, 2014
Admins: Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

P1 – 5-6 bolts, starts near a large pine located on a ledge behind/above you. Traverse in from L to first bolt. 2nd bolt is at a scoop/ledge. It is 5.10 from this bolt to past the 3rd. This can be bypassed by climbing left up the corner, then traversing in to the 4th bolt. Continue up past one more bolt to a flake/crack feature (gear), then past one or two more bolts to the belay. (5.8, ~190’)

P2 – 4 bolts, high first bolt, traverse left after 3rd (5.8, 110’)

P3 – 5 bolts, step left from belay, then follow bolts up, then right – steeper, more sustained, but tighter bolting (2nd bolt is not easily seen from belay ledge). Head up and right to a block in the corner to find a single bolt belay (w/ quicklink, backed up with cams) (5.8, 80’)

P4 - ? continue up/next to corner (we rappelled from P3)

Location

Located on the right side of the dome.

Descent: rappel the route (two single ropes, then one double if from P3), or continue to top and rap or walk off climbers left.

Protection

Rack: draws, 3 cams 1-2” (#.5-1 C4) for P1&3, full single set to 3” if continuing up corner (and possibly a nut tool for gardening)

Photos

Matt N
Santa Barbara, CA
 
Matt N   Santa Barbara, CA
 
The only bolt that gave me pause (besides rapping off the single w/ 1/4" quicklink from P3) was a pro bolt on P2 - it was like an oversized Leeper. Jun 28, 2014
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
At least one of the bolts in the photos appears to be a shiny, new Rawl. Can anyone comment on the quality of fixed gear on this route? Jun 28, 2014