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Slabtastic

5.7, TR, 30 ft (9 m),  Avg: 2.3 from 29 votes
FA: Sam Powell
Virginia > Central & South… > Charlottesville… > Wintergreen > Beginner Slab
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Description

Go straight up the middle of the slab to the anchors. The bulge in the first 8 feet is the crux, with a balancy mantle.

Location

Right in the middle of the slab.

Protection

This route is best TR'd, as there is thin to no pro for the first 15 feet, and the ledge below would make for an unpleasant landing.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Great conditions in late fall
[Hide Photo] Great conditions in late fall
Aaron trying to get crimpy on the top of Slabtastic... Awesome valley view from the bolt anchor.
[Hide Photo] Aaron trying to get crimpy on the top of Slabtastic... Awesome valley view from the bolt anchor.
Top rope only route straight up the slab to the anchors
[Hide Photo] Top rope only route straight up the slab to the anchors
Aaron contemplating his next move near the top of Slabtastic... Wearing Xero shoes...
[Hide Photo] Aaron contemplating his next move near the top of Slabtastic... Wearing Xero shoes...
Tara on Slabtastic
[Hide Photo] Tara on Slabtastic
Tara on Slabtastic
[Hide Photo] Tara on Slabtastic
Me bringing Reggie up on Slabtastic
[Hide Photo] Me bringing Reggie up on Slabtastic
Working over the mantle.
[Hide Photo] Working over the mantle.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Randy Garrett
Charlottesville, VA
 
[Hide Comment] Fun! One of my kids said he "had to get all Spiderman on it." Jul 20, 2014
Matthew
 
[Hide Comment] This route would be leadable on gear, but is probably PG13 or R. The very bottom of the climb will take a few small nuts (~12ft), but then you'd move up past your pro for about 15ft before getting good gear or you'd have to move off-route right/left to get gear in.

The crux of this route, IMO, is the small roofy feature at the base (~12 ft up) which could be marginally protected with those small nuts and an anchored belayer. Once above this crux the route gets into the run-out but is very easy climbing. Use your judgement and I'll be frank to say I top-roped this, but I think it could be done and could probably be risk-managed with a couple crash pads. May 28, 2019
Jeff Smada
Richmond, VA
[Hide Comment] Controversial take but a bolt or two would make this route awesome. On gear, I don't know that the route is worth the fall you may take on it. Jan 9, 2023