Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 436 total · 8/month
Shared By: Duncan P Ryan on May 6, 2014
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. Details

Description

A fun wide beast. Between Wigglin' Worm and the Unnamed 5.10 corner. Starts where you can stem into the Unnamed corner, but goes up the pillar, through a bulge, and then a roof. Wide the entire way. Looks intimidating from below, but it's hard to fall out when your body gets swallowed up.

A couple #4 BD for the bottom of the pillar, but quickly goes to #5s. Half way up the V-slot it transitions to #6s for the rest of the way. A few small pieces can save you a #5 by protecting a smaller crack out to the right above the pillar. A #3 Big Bro can save you some gear and a #4 can be placed at the lip of the roof, although above the roof it remains solid #6s.

Location

Between Wigglin' Worm and the Unnamed 5.10 left-facing corner

Protection

BD #4(2), #5(4), #6(4). Can place a #1 and a couple .75s above the pillar. Maybe #3-#4 Big Bros if you got em. Good anchors with chains.

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