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My Three Rats

WI5, Trad, Ice, 400 ft (121 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 3 from 1 vote
FA: Steve Garvey & Jim Sweeney, February 1988
Alaska > S Central Alaska > S Central Alask… > Valdez > Hole In The Wall

Description

This climb is located past Crystal Vision, up canyon beyond the first batch of ice. The creek may need some time to fully freeze to make the approach more user friendly. The first pitch of My Three Rats may be made up of 75' of turf, Verglass, ice and rock. Protect with a combination of rock, ice or whatever kind of protection you can find. Once you scratch you way up to the ice pillar continue up nice blue climbing up and through the amazing crux pillar pitch at the top of the route.

Protection

Protect this route with ice screws and rock gear then rappel the route using V threads and alders.

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My Three Rats
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