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Routes in Dreamland

ADHD (Adventure Dog Hank Direct) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Adventure Dog S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Big Egos S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Bucket List S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Call of the Wild S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Daily Grind S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Doberman Pinscher S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dreamland S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Endless Summer S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Half Breed S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hong Kong Phooey S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lords of Dogtown S,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Man's Best Friend S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Off the Wall S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rip City S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Side Effects S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stairway to Heaven S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Transworld S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
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Type: Sport, 210 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Alan Collins, Dave McRae 5/4/2014
Page Views: 2,872 total · 56/month
Shared By: Dave McRae on May 5, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

A 210 foot, bolted journey to the top of the Marsupial Wall. All three pitches of Adventure Dog offer sustained 5.10 climbing, mostly solid rock, and impressive position...

P1 5.10+ 45ft. 5 bolts. Starts in a lighter colored rock scar and concave feature on the right side of Marsupial Wall. Sustained stemming in an open corner and seam leads to an optional anchor for single pitch cragging, or step up and right to a chain anchor below the second pitch of Adventure Dog (45 feet). Or, for full value, skip both anchors and continue another 70 ft to Adventure Dog's second pitch anchor. (115 feet).

Variation A, (ADHD 5.11.a)- start 10 feet to the right, on a crimpy face.
Variation B- (Old Dog 5.6 R) start 40 feet to the right, just right of the shrubby Juniper, then angle up and left past two bolts.

P2 5.10+ 70ft. 7 bolts. Angle up and left toward a steep corner. Crank up the overhanging corner (crux) and continue directly up the steep and juggy face to a chain anchor. A single, 70m rope reaches the ground from this anchor.

P3 5.10+ 100ft. 8 bolts. Pulls two bulges way off the deck, an epic pitch! Continue straight up and take caution clipping the first two bolts. Make a long reach past the first overhang (crux). Keep motoring on good holds and steep terrain as you angle left while passing the upper bulge. Lower on chains to the anchor atop pitch 2, or continue to the top of the wall and anchor off a Juniper tree.

Location

A prominent, 70-foot fin jutting out from the upper right side of the wall makes a good landmark. Adventure Dog climbs the face to the left of the prominent fin.

Protection

Rack of quickdraws. Two rappels from chain anchors with a single, 70m rope.

Photos

John Collins
Bend Or
 
John Collins   Bend Or
 
Great route. If you do the "hank direct" for the first pitch then this route gets 4 stars. The roof on the last pitch has good holds. Lots of fun climbing. Nice work Dec 2, 2014
Nick.A
Bend
 
Nick.A   Bend
 
Great climb with incredible exposure and exciting cruxes. Well worth the slog out there with an amazing view of the park. Avoid on windy days.. Apr 5, 2016
Chris Winter
Portland, OR
 
Chris Winter   Portland, OR
 
Great route atop the Marsupials. The rock is still cleaning up a bit. The hanging block atop the first pitch is a little spooky. The second pitch is really cool. Feb 4, 2018

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