Thieves in the Temple
Sport, 80 ft,
Avg: 3.9 from 13
FA: D. Reed
> New River Gorge
> New River Gorge…
> Fern Buttress
> 6) Thieves Area
Writing in chalk
Please stop putting the dreaded "X", "Bees" or "Snake" on the rock faces. Please be smart and conscious of others.
Stop putting tick marks on the rock unless you are going to brush them off when you are done on the route. This goes against the ethic of the area and in the eyes of the locals is the same as graffiti. Rock climbing is an outdoor sport and guess what lives outdoors? That's right, bees, wasps, snakes, and even bears! We all know they exist, no reason to write it on the walls.
Classic three-tiered climbing. Start off on a series of long, bouldery moves through sharp pockets and positive oxide jugs. At the horizontal break, begin a cruxy, slightly overhung traverse up and left. Finish on a devious sequence through the barely less-than vertical face, with a traverse back right to the shuts.
Given 12a in the Thompson guide and 12b in the Williams guide. Realistically, it's probably up there with Chunky Monkey and Jesus & Tequila in terms of "12b-ishness" -- definitely a very proud onsight.
First bolted line around the corner (climbers right) of Emerald Dance. There is often a pile of cheater stones below the starting holds at the lip of a low roof. Rap or lower off of solid-but-aged shuts.
8 bolts plus a 2 bolt anchor. Tightly bolted for the first four bolts and a bit sparser once the angle lessens - scary fall potential going for the fifth or sixth bolt (tree + pendulum).