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Flappy

5.10c, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 3.3 from 17 votes
FA: Mike Strassman, Jackie Carroll, and Steve Kabala
California > Sierra Eastside > Lone Pine Area > Alabama Hills > Alabama Hills N… > Western Wall Area > Hangin' Tree

Description

This is a thin and challenging face climb.
The crux is found in the lower section. Once you're past the 3rd bolt and the angle backs off, the climbing does, too, although it's still interesting. A stick clip is handy, especially with the crux being low on the route. Another great Strassman, Carroll, et al route! This route is in shade until about 1pm and probably doesn't get much sun at all from late fall to early spring.

Location

This is the first route you encounter as you walk up to the Hangin' Tree after coming through the tunnel. It follows the rounded prow of the buttress. RCM is in the corridor to the left.

Protection

11 bolts. Fat hooks for lowering.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] 12 pitches, 80 feet ?? May 5, 2014
BAd
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] Hey, James:

Yikes! Some sort of gross typo-seizure. I don't think I can change that. Major Doh! moment. Would be cool, however, to have on-sighted a 12 pitch 10c! I think that's a little beyond me just yet, but the training is moving forward, so you never know.

Edit: Thanks, moderator, for fixing my typo. My goal was to put in 1/2 pitch. May 8, 2014
Joy likes trad
Southern California
[Hide Comment] If this is the route I think it is the Bishop Guide says it has 8 bolts when in fact it has 11. Oct 11, 2015
BAd
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] Hey, Gription:

I don't recall the number of bolts. It starts at the toe of the buttress as you first meet it on the trail up. You can see all the bolts. Carry a couple of extra draws if you're unsure. Good climbing.

BAd Oct 18, 2015
Russ Walling
Flaky Foont, WI. Redacted…
  5.10b/c
[Hide Comment] A crimpy start gets you going on good holds all the way to the top. The upper section is easier than its cousin next door and lower angle. If you can get through the first couple of bolts you'll have it in the bag. Good route. Solid 3 stars. Nov 14, 2016
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
[Hide Comment] Very fun, more technical start and slightly harder than the neighboring RCM but eases after the first two bolts. Good stuff, borderline 4 stars but feeling stingy. Nov 14, 2016
[Hide Comment] Favorite route in the Hills so far Oct 21, 2022