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Routes in Cyanide Cliff

Bop Gun S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Castor T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
My dirty secret T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Our Little Secret T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pollux T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Triple Jeopardy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Up for the Down Stroke T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad
FA: Devores
Page Views: 65 total, 1/month
Shared By: Jeff Scheuerell on Apr 29, 2014
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Awesome varied crack climb but with often less than stellar rock. In other words, do this route but make sure you do it with an attentive, loose rock savvey partner and wear your helmets, especially the belayer. The route is not called Dirty Secret for nothing but it is great climbing none the less. It's a giant left facing corner that goes on and on. Can be done in one or two pitches. Would be great to see this thing get more traffic and maybe a little cleaning up. The hardest moves for me were at the second bolt right before the first anchor getting to the ledge where the crack in the corner kinda seams out. Above the first anchor a ways there is a blank seeming section with tricky pro but the holds are incut and it turns out to be not so bad. Then higher my partner for the day found a steep tight hands section cruxy. The pitch ends at a 2 mussy anchor. We had a 70 but I think 2 raps with a 60 would get you down.

Location

The obvious giant left facing corner.

Protection

2 bolts but mainly pro to 3" w/ extra from red C3 to #1C4, a few draws and some extra slings.

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