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Routes in The Ricochet Boulder

B. Mills V2 5+
Cilley Flakes V2 5+
Cilley Groove V4 6B
Cilley Old Man V5+ 6C+
Garden of Your Mind V5 6C
Jerry's Traverse V7 7A+
Land Shark V11-12 8A+
Left Train Track V2 5+
Pass the Ammunition V2+ 5+
Powder Monkey V1+ 5
Ricochet V3 6A
Right Train Track V1 5
Type: Boulder
FA: Sam Edson (?)
Page Views: 126 total, 3/month
Shared By: eddysamson on Apr 28, 2014
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Start on a sharp/jagged hold at about 6 feet. Get a right foot and then throw for a crimpy pocket above the starting hold. Get some feet and go for a sidepull left towards Cilley Flake. Drop knee your right leg to the left of the starting hold, grab a intermediate sidepull above the crimpy pocket and throw for a jug on the lip. Top out going right towards Cilley Groove with a heel.

I just cleaned the top out for this problem on 5/7/2014, it should be good to go!

I should add the route was named that because an old timer pointed the line out to me saying he wasn't sure if anyone had done it.

Location

In between Cilley Flake and Cilley Groove on the corner of the boulder.

Protection

pads
eddysamson  
 
youtube.com/watch?v=xfSpwjY…

Got some video of it today, first climb in the video Apr 19, 2015
eddysamson  
 
I'm not entirely sure actually. I've never done Cilley Groove. I was always under the impression it was farther to the right and never understood where it started (used to think it was left train track way back). Never realized it climbs up right from where Cilley Old Man starts. This line was pointed out to me by some old guy on my first or second day ever climbing that boulder so I've only really been focused on this one anyways. Jul 29, 2014
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V5
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V5
Matt-

I tried 'Cilley Groove' a couple of different ways and every way was hard. Certainly nothing that felt like v4.

This line felt like the more logical and obvious way to do it.

Give it a go next time you're out there and see what you think. Maybe Eddy will tell us what the difference is supposed to be. Jul 27, 2014
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  V5+
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  V5+
This is just speculation because I have never climbed 'Groove' but I always though you climbed the groove more directly for 'Groove". 'Old Man' doesn't seem to follow the groove for more than the first move.

MAYBE beta for 'Groove' is go up left hand to the crimp then knee bar and layback up the shallow corner? Not too sure though... Pure speculation. Jul 25, 2014
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V5
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V5
What's the difference between this climb and 'Cilley Groove'? Perhaps someone with more knowledge, like Mark, can shed some light, but I'm pretty sure that this problem, as described, IS 'Cilley Groove'.

This is the easiest and most obvious way to climb the dihedral/groove feature, which is what 'Cilley Groove' is supposed to do. If they're different, what's the beta for 'Cilley Groove' then?

Thoughts? Jul 24, 2014
Ian McAfee
Concord, NH
Ian McAfee   Concord, NH
Surprisingly independent line, though a bit squeezed in, with good beta the dyno is avoidable. Holds are cool. Gradewise maybe 5 or easy 6? Definitely a step down from 3 speed on vinyl or pyramid power, a smaller step down from child prodigy I think. I agree with matthewWallace.

Good line though for sure, thought it'd be a lame variation but it's great. Jul 6, 2014
eddysamson  
 
The top out was significantly harder when it wasn't clean. We used to try to go left and top out on Cilley Flake because the way to the right was dirty and very sketchy. I didn't think to go right until after I got up there and started cleaning. May 27, 2014
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  V5+
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  V5+
When I climbed it I felt it was a pretty natural line, start on the starting holds for Cilley Groove and climb the face between that and Cilley Flakes. I used the ramp for Cilley Groove for feet when topping out because it felt natural that way, and there is no point where you would want to go any further left... May 23, 2014
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Is this an eliminate line or an everything goes? May 23, 2014
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  V5+
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  V5+
Where is the fun in that jay ;)

For me, the top out does not seem that difficult, someone has cleaned the top a bit and there are a couple good crimps up there that make the top seem fairly casual, with the meat of the climbing on the setup toss to the crystally ball at the lip. Hopefully more people climb it so we can get a good consensus! May 23, 2014
eddysamson  
 
I've had a hard time with coming up with the grade for this climb. I've had the beta locked for like 4 years, just had to get the top out, so its been hard to tell how hard it is when I've had the muscle memory down for so long. I agree though I am really psyched to get more people on this climb, its a great climb and I'd like to know the grade consensus as well! May 20, 2014
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
What's with all the plusses Matt? Take a stand--bump them up a full number grade! May 15, 2014
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  V5+
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  V5+
This route is really cool, I do not think it is a V7 though. For me it is easier then Child Prodigy V6+ and Metallic V7 and in the same range as Spragausarus V5+. So I gave the grade V5+. It would be awesome for more people to climb it and get a better consensus grade. It is a very worthy route. May 15, 2014