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Routes in Lower Buckhorn Wash

Echoes 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2
Flapjack Tower T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Groovin' at the Beach T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Haagenschlong 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C1
I'm Rick James, Bitch S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
James Tower AKA The Lightblub T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1
Jamison Engineering T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Life During Wartime 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3+ R
Outhouse Tower - Mallory's Mountain Marmalade 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A1+
Short Stack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Soup Kitchen S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Whale, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wisdom Tooth - Cryptogramic Forest T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 240 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: P1 Mike Friedrichs, George Jamison 1990. P2 Dave Medara, John Merriam 1996.
Page Views: 1,014 total · 22/month
Shared By: Andrew Gram on Apr 27, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Wingate doesn't get much better than on this beautiful tower.

P1 - Climb a long and sustained crack through just about every size to a big belay ledge. It starts thin and widens as it goes with the occasional chimneyish pod. 165', 5.11

P2 - Climb a sandy wide crack in a dihedral to a ledge system. Follow the ledge system clear around to the other side of the tower and head up the first reasonable weakness to the summit. 75', 5.9+

Location

Approach as for the Lightbulb. After working your way through some cliff bands onto the bench the Lightbulb is on, turn right and head up into the side canyon. You can see the tower from the road easily enough.

Protection

Bring pretty much everything from small cams to big pieces. The first pitch is long. 4-5 sets from .5-3 camalots with a few smaller pieces down to green alien and a single set of big cams.

Photos

Broseph L
Salt Lake City, UT
Broseph L   Salt Lake City, UT
Can anyone tell me, what is the that line in the big corner??? Sep 25, 2017
Cole Bradburn
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Cole Bradburn   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Awesome tower! First pitch is on some great rock and gets your through all the sizes from 1" to 4" and it even has a classic tower climbing ending. The second pitch is short and sandy but adds a bit of that "tower climbing" that you don't get on the first pitch. We broke the second pitch into two pitches because of rope drag. After we got onto the big ledge system right before the 10 foot summit block we belayed here and then scrambled to the top.

Replaced the webbing on both anchors 4/22/17 Apr 24, 2017