Type: Trad, Aid, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches, Grade III
FA: Steve Walker, Bert Stolt, Hal Gribble, Joe Demarsh 1988
Page Views: 2,171 total · 25/month
Shared By: Andrew Gram on Apr 27, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


6 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
-none-

Description

The crux of this tower is definitely the approach as both pitches are mostly bolt ladders. They are steep and reachy bolt ladders though - the FA team did a really good job drilling from top steps, and you may have trouble making the reaches at all if you are shorter than 5'10".

P1 - Either thrutch up the weird slot to a sloping ledge or climb low 5th class choss 15 feet to the west and walk along the sloping ledge until you can clip the first bolt. Climb the bolt ladder with an occasional free move until reaching a crack, which is climbed free for 10 feet or so to the anchors on a comfortable ledge. 90', 5.9 C1

P2 - Climb the bolt ladder passing a fixed stopper and a horizontal crack to the summit. Placing gear in the horizontal is an exciting stretch even if you are tall - bring a big hook or expect to do a tough free move if you are much shorter than 5'10". 90', C1.

Location

Look for the line of bolts on the SW corner of the tower.

To descend, either make one double rope or two single rope raps. I'm not sure if a single 60 would make it, but a 70 works for sure.

Protection

Lots and lots of quickdraws - you could do it in one long pitch if you bring enough. Stoppers in case the fixed one blows. We used a .5 on P1, and a 3 and an old style 4 camalot in the horizontal on P2. The shorter your reach, the bigger the cam you need for that piece.

We beefed up the rap tat on the summit, but it was pretty bad and could use some more TLC.

Photos