Type: Trad, Aid, 180 ft, 2 pitches, Grade III
FA: Steve Walker, Bert Stolt, Hal Gribble, Joe Demarsh 1988
Page Views: 1,447 total · 26/month
Shared By: Andrew Gram on Apr 27, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

3 Opinions

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The crux of this tower is definitely the approach as both pitches are mostly bolt ladders. They are steep and reachy bolt ladders though - the FA team did a really good job drilling from top steps, and you may have trouble making the reaches at all if you are shorter than 5'10".

P1 - Either thrutch up the weird slot to a sloping ledge or climb low 5th class choss 15 feet to the west and walk along the sloping ledge until you can clip the first bolt. Climb the bolt ladder with an occasional free move until reaching a crack, which is climbed free for 10 feet or so to the anchors on a comfortable ledge. 90', 5.9 C1

P2 - Climb the bolt ladder passing a fixed stopper and a horizontal crack to the summit. Placing gear in the horizontal is an exciting stretch even if you are tall - bring a big hook or expect to do a tough free move if you are much shorter than 5'10". 90', C1.


Look for the line of bolts on the SW corner of the tower.

To descend, either make one double rope or two single rope raps. I'm not sure if a single 60 would make it, but a 70 works for sure.


Lots and lots of quickdraws - you could do it in one long pitch if you bring enough. Stoppers in case the fixed one blows. We used a .5 on P1, and a 3 and an old style 4 camalot in the horizontal on P2. The shorter your reach, the bigger the cam you need for that piece.

We beefed up the rap tat on the summit, but it was pretty bad and could use some more TLC.


Matt Olson
Salt Lake City
Matt Olson   Salt Lake City
This was a cool little tower, and I loved the isolation. I'm still pretty new to this, Thin Man being my fourth tower. I'd second that the crux is the hike, as the tower is pretty straight forward. Pack light! For us it was probably 2-3 hours one way (and a little confusing at moments). Beautiful views though!

As of March 15, 2015 all bolts seem to be in good shape. The nut on p2 is still there. There have been a lot of webbing/rope additions/slings left at the top anchors to reduce rope drag on the descent. The webbing/ropes are in okay shape but are getting a little old, and probably need to be changed at some point. We didn't have enough on us to redo the anchors (you'd need at least 16+ feet of webbing and some rap rings). We used a BD .5 a #4 cam.

The bolts can be a little reachy, but not bad. Mar 21, 2015
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9 C1
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.9 C1
The webbing/ropes on top are less than a year old - stuff ages really fast in the desert, especially on summits that are never out of the sun. The webbing that was there when I climbed it last year almost all broke under a light tug. This is certainly a cool adventure for a fourth tower, but it is a good idea to be prepared to have to replace anchors on obscurities like this. Bring a bunch of webbing or be prepared to cut off the end of your rope to get down safely. Not a bad idea to have a bolt kit too, though the bolts on this are pretty ok. Mar 22, 2015
Steven Walker
Logan, UT
Steven Walker   Logan, UT
That's funny. I haven't thought about that route since, well, 1988. The bolts were spaced as they were because we had a piece of 1 inch or so angle iron about four feet long with a bunch of holes drilled in it. You could attach it to the highest bolt at a hole, say, a foot from the top, and then clip to that putting yourself an extra foot higher to drill the next bolt. As I remember it was a little precarious and one had the feeling the whole works was going to spin around on you as your center of mass got higher. This method was actually a scaled down version of a veritable "contraption" that we hauled in there that anchored to two bolts, as far apart as you could get them, and then projected an additional ten feet above your last bolt. The thing turned out to be too unwieldy to work, or a least we didn't have the patients to mess with it (Harding would have loved it). But any thing to alleviate the bolting- it was all done by the tap, tap, tap method. We called the climb "The Environmentalist" a name derived in part from it's almost totally contrived line. Steve Walker Aug 5, 2015