Avg: 3 from 9 votes
|Type:||Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 5 pitches|
|Page Views:||2,022 total · 25/month|
|Shared By:||Dean Hoffman on Apr 27, 2014|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
2 choices for the first pitch...
The original pitch 1(ish) is a very easy traverse over to the Jungle belay. Leave your packs over by Counterfeit and gear up, walk up two or so switch backs to the base of Bellyful. Just down from here you will find one bolt and a 5-easy traverse to the base of pitch 2, place a piece or two... (You can do this in your approach shoes and then leave them at the belay and grab them on your way back down!)
Alternate "Darkside of the Moonshiner" direct start... 5.11ish, Start literally on the trail and follow 6 bolts (I tried my best to camo these so hopefully you won't be able to see them all from the ground!) up the slopey, sandy,fun pitch. Expect to feel a little excited as you make tenuous moves up this face. It will likely always be sandy, be forewarned. After bolt # 6 look for an optional .4/.5 placement before you make the final mantle and an optional #2 placement to get you to the chains! Might be worth top roping first if you don't onsight 5.10, especially due to its eternally sandy nature! This is definitely a great pitch! About 60ft...
2: 5.9/10? Pretty much a full 35m of hands to wide hands to OW in a corner (If you're new to OW this is a good intro! Challenging, but not terrifying!) Great features and fantastic rock take you to a two bolt anchor with a decent stance(Earthbridge belay) (Navigate delicately past the earth bridge!) From this belay you can also shift right and climb Do Wrong Right for a bonus pitch. Leave your #5s here.
3: The old school Sandona pitch.5.10+ The hardest moves are getting from the belay up to the base of the crack. Some looseness and vegitation, but this fairly short pitch takes you to a sweet belay at the Alcove.
4: More Splitter! 5.10 Nothing tricky here, continue straight up the fantastic hands/wide hands for another 30 or so meters, culminating with some great, easier, chimney climbing up to the fantastic Tower belay. You'll definitely want 3's and 4's for this pitch! (Shared with Pocketfull of Horses)
5: 5.10+ Rack up a .75, 10 draws/slings, and a 1 and 2 camalot and head straight up the wild arete. Clip 8 bolts on the arete transitioning from face to arete on great patina edges, at the 7th bolt surf left and pull up onto a nice ledge, clamber over the bush and chimney between the summit and the sub summit block. I placed the #2 just before making the last move to the chains but you may like the #1 a little lower as well. From here bring your partner up and celebrate the awesome views of the Peaks! (If clipping bolts for some reason doesn't appeal to you feel free to bushwhack around the ledge system to the right, it'll get you to the summit but really is not cool at all)
(Bonus Awesomeness) Rap or lower down the south side of the tower and either TR or lead the fantastic hand crack back to the top of the tower FA Frye, 5.9
See topo on Pocketfull description (Moonshiner goes straight up from the trail, center of photo)
the wall at the base of Bellyful.
Rap Beta: To get down do a series of single rope raps (must be a 70!You will not reach the Jungle belay from the Earthbridge if you have a 60, also knot your ends!) straight from the summit to the ground. Watch the ends of your rope as a few of these are a bit close, but still comfortable.
After just reclimbing this over the past weekend I feel like I need to mention the summit rap anchors. These were placed by the folks who first climbed pocket full of horses and they are... ok... They're more than adequate but could be better. If anyone wanted to shore them up I'm sure no one would complain...