Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Probably Andy Patterson et al.
Page Views: 409 total · 7/month
Shared By: Galen MacDougall on Apr 25, 2014
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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More of an access to the gully above, this route follows disparate cracks and horizontal features straight up to some bushwhacking/climbing past a few ledges until you reach the top with a final boulder problem finish to gain a right leaning crack and mantle top out on the boulder above.


When standing in the cave looking at Bring Out Your Dead, it is located directly behind you, on the far right side of the wall that is Sword in the Stone. You can descend by hiking down the gully on the back side or keeping the ridge and finding the anchors atop Sword in the Stone below you.


There is pretty good pro. No anchors on the top but plenty of trees to sling and cams to place along the way.


This line was done years ago by Andy and crew, and maybe even earlier by a previous generation. Exactly as you describe the location. Apr 28, 2014
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
Yes. Andy told me about this route many months ago.

The modest route description and any debate about the origin of the route should not deter people from climbing it. It is a very engaging lead with just enough gear to keep it sane. The moves through the top 1/2 of the route are enjoyable and will get even better as the route cleans up with more traffic. Belay from the big oak tree. Apr 28, 2014
Galen MacDougall  
Makes sense, Richard. Thanks for clarifying. We didn't see any sign of foot traffic and assumed it was an untraveled path, particularly the last moves up the summit block on top seemed untraveled. No worries though, I've changed the FA info now. May 8, 2014
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
We called this line "The Wicked Duke Takes A Wife", after a hilarious romance novel cover we saw at a used bookstore. No, I wasn't perusing the Romance Section. Even if I was, it's none of your business. May 8, 2014
Galen MacDougall  
Haha, nice. I've changed the name as well now. Have any of you scoped CamelBak Crack? That's the true gem higher up and a good easy/moderate route. May 8, 2014
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
One more thing:

We always topped out the route sort of to the left, on a hand-crack just right of the anchors to Sword In The Stone. There's a lot of ways to finish, but this one had the best rock and coolest moves, and it made it convenient to lower off the SITS anchors. Also, for gear-junkies, there a amazing little pod that accepts a perfect #1 Camalot before you enter said penultimate hand-crack. May 9, 2014
Michael Weaver
Santa Barbara, CA
Michael Weaver   Santa Barbara, CA
This was a fun climb after The Sword in Stone. Plenty of debris, dirt and lichen on the wall. I really wished I had a brush on this one. It starts out easy and gets more challenging as you approach the vertical crack at the top. However, there are lots of choices up there, I might have just chosen a harder one. Nov 11, 2017