[Hide Comment] the gaston at the top going to the anchors was the crux for me. maybe cause i ran outta gas. thought is was a solid 10b Jun 9, 2014

[Hide Comment] I agree with Danny, the crack was more difficult than I expected and got a little heady. I really enjoyed this climb though: bouldery start to a very thin flake (that thing will pop soon be careful), slabby traverse, then that gnarly, unique crack. Pretty 5.10+, 10b is a solid grade for it, but a stout 10b.

Most definitely clip the third bolt after you pull the roof unless you are super confident you won't fall; if you screw it up you'll totally deck, most likely not with hips at the bolt. I said above about that thin little flake, it is just above the third bolt if I remember (from the picture). Pull down not out on it and it should last a while. :)

ALSO: it is imperative that a follower on top rope climbs THROUGH THE DRAWs, not with a sling-shot top rope from the anchor. There is a large swing and you will totally deck anywhere below the 4th-5th bolt. Jan 11, 2016

[Hide Comment] Original line started right of the overhang with pitons(2) to midheight and gear for the upper crack. One piton is still there. Nov 18, 2017

[Hide Comment] Sent this line 1st try in 2007 on TR. Consensus among our group was 5.9 rating. Original line before bolts was called "Anal Cleft" and rated 5.11a by 1st ascensionist Roy back in late 70's. His partner snuck in the pitons later. He was none too happy when he discovered a bolted variation. Jul 14, 2019