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Routes in Big Easy Cliffs

Big Easy T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Boy Scout T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Bubba June T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Dilema T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Doddridge County T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Entrance Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grafitti Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lightning S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 505 total, 11/month
Shared By: J.Nichols on Apr 24, 2014
Admins: Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Description

Bouldery start, High first bolt. If you peel off before completing the crux doing this top rope be ready for a good pendulum. Crux is pulling the overhang.

Location

Start about 15 feet to the left of Boy Scout under a small overhang. Lower or rappel.

Protection

Bolted route and has fixed anchors at the top.

Photos

Original line started right of the overhang with pitons(2) to midheight and gear for the upper crack. One piton is still there. Nov 18, 2017
Hyland Markle.
Morgantown, WV
 
Hyland Markle.   Morgantown, WV
 
I agree with Danny, the crack was more difficult than I expected and got a little heady. I really enjoyed this climb though: bouldery start to a very thin flake (that thing will pop soon be careful), slabby traverse, then that gnarly, unique crack. Pretty 5.10+, 10b is a solid grade for it, but a stout 10b.

Most definitely clip the third bolt after you pull the roof unless you are super confident you won't fall; if you screw it up you'll totally deck, most likely not with hips at the bolt. I said above about that thin little flake, it is just above the third bolt if I remember (from the picture). Pull down not out on it and it should last a while. :)

ALSO: it is imperative that a follower on top rope climbs THROUGH THE DRAWs, not with a sling-shot top rope from the anchor. There is a large swing and you will totally deck anywhere below the 4th-5th bolt. Jan 11, 2016
Danny Rowand
mannington, wv
Danny Rowand   mannington, wv
the gaston at the top going to the anchors was the crux for me. maybe cause i ran outta gas. thought is was a solid 10b Jun 9, 2014