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Routes in Wall 2

Atlantean a-Go-Go T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Barracudas! T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Fantastic Coffee T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Give Back My Walls! T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Monsters in the Bathroom T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Off to Work T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Piano Lessons T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
State of My Tractor, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Surfing the River (with a Boat on Each Foot) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
What Dumb-asses! T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 95 ft
FA: Jeff Mahoney and Ches Upham, 6/10/12
Page Views: 479 total · 9/month
Shared By: Jeff Mahoney on Apr 20, 2014
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A really good intro to Wall 2. The obvious straight-up crack gives you good moves with a couple of shelf cruxes and a flaring seam about halfway. Great fingers and edges throughout. Finish over the chockstone at the top. (Staying in the crack for the cruxes will get you the 5.7; using the face definitely brings the grade--and fun--down a bit.) The rap station is right there, making this a fun, quick lap before jumping on the more sporty "Barracudas!"

Protection

A rack of singles to 4" and a few extra finger pieces if you want to sew it up. (Pink, red & brown tri-cams and/or some offset nuts work well, too.)

RAPPELLING NOTE:
Once you're down, make sure to pull rope left of the route. There's a semi-notorious crack that gobbles ropes up there if you pull straight down...

Photos

Eric Seidman
Santa Barbara, CA
 
Eric Seidman   Santa Barbara, CA
 
Like nearly all of the routes at Panic Town, this could turn into a great route with some more traffic! Ran a few laps on this one and never felt the need for a 4" piece. Jul 20, 2014
Jeff Mahoney
Santa Barbara, CA
 
Jeff Mahoney   Santa Barbara, CA
 
Well said, Eric. (The #4 was originally for building the anchor at the top before we put that rap rings in---I think. Who knows? Training weight at this point...) Jul 21, 2014
NJB
  5.7
NJB  
  5.7
Its a surprisingly fun route that takes good gear. When placing be mindful of the rope eating crack 2/3rds of the way up as it can lead to some fun rope drag when bringing up your second. Jun 7, 2016

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