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Routes in Insanity Wall

......Never Was, Never Will Be S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Anger S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Beggers Bargain S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Big Huking Chicken S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Bulimia S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Dr. Jekyll S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fangoria S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Festivus, for the Rest of Us S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Global Warming S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Huevo's Locos S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Illusion Mentor S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Imaginary Friend S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Insane Tree Hugger S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Lenora's Wrath Kept 'em Lawful S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
More Fun Than Bubblewrap S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Mr. Hyde S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pave the world S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Psycho Killer S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Luke Bowman, Sean O'Grady
Page Views: 248 total, 6/month
Shared By: AP on Apr 19, 2014
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Description

First route on insanity wall. Route climbs up to a ledge protected by 2 bolts. There's a roof permadraw that is interesting to clip...if you don't clip this and you blow the clip, it may result in a scary fall, possibly a deck. The permadraw is long so it should be reachable by most...this route may be a bit more difficult for shorter people. Crux is pulling the roof onto face.

Location

Left most route on insanity wall, however in an update to guidebook, this route is now considered to be located in the Beyond the Sea wall.

Protection

4 bolts, 1 permadraw under roof, anchors.

Photos

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Make sure you have a couple of different quickdraws saved for #4. Double-check the draw once you've clipped #4 (piece above the perma). It is possible for the gate to stay open or lie directly on the lip of the roof. Switch gate-facing/draw if necessary. PM or Tommy if this happens to anyone else. Jun 19, 2017
Once you clip the permadraw on the roof, there's a sweet dyno move to big holds on the lip of the roof. Jun 18, 2015