Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Huking Buttress Wall

Beyond The Sea S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Big Huking Chicken S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Bobby Dangler S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Giggle Stick S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lithium S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Master of Ceremonies S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ranger Danger S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Luke Bowman, Sean O'Grady
Page Views: 382 total · 7/month
Shared By: LovePas on Apr 19, 2014
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route


7 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

First route on insanity wall. Route climbs up to a ledge protected by 2 bolts. There's a roof permadraw that is interesting to clip...if you don't clip this and you blow the clip, it may result in a scary fall, possibly a deck. The permadraw is long so it should be reachable by most...this route may be a bit more difficult for shorter people. Crux is pulling the roof onto face.

Location

Left most route on insanity wall, however in an update to guidebook, this route is now considered to be located in the Beyond the Sea wall.

Protection

4 bolts, 1 permadraw under roof, anchors.

Photos

Once you clip the permadraw on the roof, there's a sweet dyno move to big holds on the lip of the roof. Jun 18, 2015
Make sure you have a couple of different quickdraws saved for #4. Double-check the draw once you've clipped #4 (piece above the perma). It is possible for the gate to stay open or lie directly on the lip of the roof. Switch gate-facing/draw if necessary. PM or Tommy if this happens to anyone else. Jun 19, 2017
The undercling flake that I used to clip the permadraw seemed questionable last time I was on this. I gave it a few taps and it did not sound very confidence inspiring. Dec 15, 2017

More About Big Huking Chicken

Printer-Friendly