To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments
so you only print what you need.
Ripcurl
5.11a,
Trad, 110 ft (33 m),
Avg: 2 from 5
votes
FA: NP, KH
Nevada
> Southern Nevada
> Red Rocks
> (01) Calico Basin
> Red Springs Rock
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
A funky line that is not for everyone. A wide layback with one bolt leads to an "a cheval" ride across the top of the flake, clipping 2 bolts, then steep pulling over a bulge to a gear-protected seam. This leads up crispy crack to a rest stance, some sketchball loose flake wrestling, a fixed thread, and a short corner leading to a roof with a downward-facing half inch bolt. Pull right around the roof, clip a high bolt, navigate through steep terrain to one last bolt, and make a final throw to a jug and clip chains at chest level. If you clip the chains before the throw, you wussed out.
Location
Just right of Rocky Road, a good landmark is the wide layback crack up the smooth slab.
Protection
Eight bolts and a single rack to 1", maybe a second set of TCUs for those wanting to load up the gear. We found ballnutz useful but others may demur. Long slings or double rope technique will be appreciated when hitting the steeps on this long pitch. 70M rope required to lower.
What a proud legacy we leave for future generations by scrawling graffiti on the rock.
This route recieved it's first ascent via ground-up, no hooks, chalkess climbing. We added several bolts to keep people from hurting themselves (until higher on the route). Apr 19, 2014
Edit to add: civility breeds such, the opposite likewise. It's interesting to note the different approaches to the same rock face...one is surprised that the investigation didn't begin at the top while the other...well, we just went out and did some rock climbing. I think these unreported TR lines are worthy and contrasting leads, and, just to answer the chain yank...the clip up takes a face and unprotectable seam. The mixed line has cracks that take good enough gear to keep us happy. Thus..............................ah, you'll figure it out. Apr 21, 2014