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Routes in The Escoheag Boulder

Arete Sit V6- 7A
Backside Problem V1 5
Boot Strap V5 6C
Crystallography V8 7B
Face Stand V2-3 5+
Nick's Mantle V6 7A
Nipple Projct V9-10 7C+
Quartz Face V2 5+
Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: Max Monn
Page Views: 229 total, 5/month
Shared By: MaxMonn on Apr 19, 2014
Admins: M Sprague, Joe M.

You & This Route


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Description

Start as for the Arete Sit and move right across the face with the quartz vein into Quartz Face with the crux being a tenuous bump/match on the small crimp located on the quartz vein. A variation for sure but a really nice sequence.

Location

sit start on the blunt arete, go up and right to the top.

Protection

pad or two

Photos

it will be interesting to see someone who is taller repeat this, it is super scrunchy. classy link though. Mar 27, 2017
MaxMonn
Providence, RI
 
MaxMonn   Providence, RI
 
Thanks Mark! I definitely agree that the hardest part of this climb is really dialing in some micro-beta that works for your own style and body type. I originally called it a 7, but received some friendly feedback that I might be sandbagging it. I'm psyched that you figured it out! Mar 27, 2017
M Sprague
New England
  V7+
M Sprague   New England  
  V7+
I'm not the best grader since I haven't been able to climb consistently lately. I haven't climbed a V8 recently but I have been working some on a fingery project that I think is probably ~V9, so once I figured the foot beta the fingery crux seemed a lot easier on this than when I tried it a few years ago. I gassed out 4 times going for the easy pop to the jug at the top though. The grade seems about right. I was thinking maybe a 7, not quite as hard as the sit starts to Try Again. (Try Again is hard for the grade for me) Mar 27, 2017
MaxMonn
Providence, RI
 
MaxMonn   Providence, RI
 
Nice job Mark! From what I understand this is the second ascent (I've been waiting for someone to repeat this!!). Can I get you to weigh in on the grade? Its been a bit in limbo since it had only seen one ascent... Mar 26, 2017
M Sprague
New England
  V7+
M Sprague   New England  
  V7+
Footwork made all the difference for me on this. I used a slightly different sequence than Max, putting my toe on a small bump about 6 inches below the better hold out on the face before popping out to the gaston, brought my left foot to the little scoopy hold on the arete, then dropped the right foot a bit to match the left hand under the right on the sidepull and reached out to the right arete. A really nice linkup Mar 23, 2017
MaxMonn
Providence, RI
 
MaxMonn   Providence, RI
 
Video of the FA.


youtu.be/1Igah69Fycw Apr 19, 2014